這是本次印度游的最後一篇。
到過印度的人，一般都只有兩種極端印象，一是很不喜歡這個國家，二是對這國家好評不絕。我是後者。
是次旅程用了550美元及4,600港幣買機票。自從四年前初次踏進印度，已不只一次被問到「印度好玩嗎？」及「這次旅程有沒有特別的見聞？」
我說印度的風光及古建築很美，朋友說我的描述不夠具體。其實，我的旅程每次也只有兩星期，根本不夠去體會這個歷史悠久的古國。而且，印度是一個很難被具體形容的國家。她不只地大，還很多元化，不同族群及不同省份有不同的特色，南與北像不同的國度，各種看來不相關的獨特事物可以融合在一起。印度旅遊局的宣傳口號「Incredible India」是我對這國家的印象。
但不論你喜歡不喜歡一個國家也好，在他人的國土、與其他國家的人傾談甚至日常生活中，真的要謹言慎行及尊重他人。
我在斯里蘭卡機場遇見兩位會說普通話的印度人。這兩位印度人在中國經營住宿及餐飲業務。我與這兩位印度人與普通話傾談，引來一位來自湖北的老伯注意。
他加入我們的話題，一切本來很好。直至這位老伯問我印度的天氣是否有點熱。
這位老伯突然向印度人說：「中國是一個很好的地方，氣候好，不太冷也不太熱。而印度真不好，很熱。」
兩位印度人有點錯愕。而老伯追問他們：「印度好嗎？」兩位印度人回答：「好呀！」
老伯卻說：「好個屁，那麼熱。」說得好像天氣炎熱就要否定一個國家的所有，說得好像中國沒有高溫的日子，也說得好像東北地區沒有零下溫度的日子。
事後印度人對我說：「每個國家也有自己的好與壞，不可以隨便說其他國家不好。」
我相信老伯並非存心傷害他人，他只是不敏感。
我想，在我們有餘錢去旅遊的時候，最好不要氣焰囂張。在踏進發展中的地方，而自己的家好像比較先進時，最好不要輕易作出判斷，不要以為自己是高人一等，說話可以大聲一點，可以不理人感受。
這樣做除了是基本禮貌外，也可令自己免於爭端。
Saturday, October 20, 2007
南印度十六天﹝十九﹞/阿育吠陀/ 16 Days in South India (19)/ Ayurveda
每天游走不同地方，當然也有疲累的時候。疲累時，總想到按摩。在這次16天的旅程中，做了四次按摩，其中一次在斯里蘭卡做。
與中醫有點相似，按摩都是古老醫學哲學中的一部份。印度的傳統醫學，叫阿育吠陀，有六千年歷史。據了解，阿育吠陀的發源地便是喀拉拉邦。
按摩的時候，師傅會把用多種植物提煉的油塗上顧客身上再按摩。與中式推拿不一樣，按摩的力度不會太大，師傅一般都很柔。與深圳的玩樂式按摩不同的是，印度的按摩一般都是一小時。我除了按摩之外，還做了植物油蒸汽浴，簡單來說，就是排毒。做完一系列的療程後，身心真的放鬆了，效果比深圳三小時好。
除了喀拉拉邦外，印度各地也有類似的服務場所。除了是一小時的按摩外，大多數場所也提供為期數天的療程，當中的服務包括按摩及食療等。他們也教授瑜珈。我做的一小時按摩加十五分鐘蒸汽浴，最貴的要Rs1,300﹝HK$260﹞。
而斯里蘭卡的按摩也是一小時，收費為斯里蘭卡盧比2,200﹝包小費﹞，即港幣157元。按摩的手法比較像中式，有一點力度。
在此要提及一下，按摩時顧客是全裸或幾近全裸﹝最多是以一塊兜擋布遮掩敏感部位﹞。師傅觸及幾乎全身每寸皮膚，有時甚至是兩個師傅一起進行治療。因此，我可以理解為何在印度男性只會由男按摩師傅治療，而不像深圳的水療中心，顧客可以看技師照片及點女技師服務。
而所謂阿育吠陀，就是指生命的科學，其理念與中醫有點相似。
這學說認為世上萬物由五種要素組成。這五種要素包括土、空氣、風﹝是萬物活動的原則，負責人的神經反應、呼吸及循環系統等﹞、火﹝新陳代謝、胃口、物質的轉化及保持適當體溫﹞及水﹝保護人的身體﹞。
當五種要素的平衡失去時，毛病便出現。而治療就是要把恢復平衡。詳細資料可看這裡。
在香港，也有場所提供這種服務，詳情可看這裡。
Walking to and visiting different places is exhausting sometimes. I will always think of massage whenever I am tired. I have tried four massages, one in Sri Lanka, during this 16-day trip.
Similar to Chinese medicine, massage in India is part of a ancient medical philosophy. The traditional medicine of India is called Ayurveda, which means the knowledge of life. It has a history of 6,000 years and it is believed to be originated from Kerala. For details of Ayurveda, please click here.
The masseurs will pour the oil extracted from different plants to the patient to restore the balance of the five elements that made up the body. The massage is not as forceful as the Chinese way. The massage will only last for one hour, unlike what we have enjoyed from the entertainment massage in Shenzhen.
Apart from massage, I have also done herbal steam bath. Put it in a simple way, it is a kind of purification. I am really relaxed after having the treatment, which is much more effective than the three-hour enjoyment in Shenzhen.
Not only in Kerala, other Indian cities also have Ayurveda centres. Apart from one-hour massage, most of these centres also provide days long treatment, which include massage and diet therapy. They also have yoga classes. The most expensive one-hour massage and a 15-minute steam bath I have enjoyed cost Rs1,300 (HK$260).
Massage in Sri Lanka also lasts for one hour, and it cost LR2,200 (including tips), which is about HK$157. The massage is more forceful than it is in India, and more like the Chinese way.
Perhaps I have to mention that the patients are naked or almost naked during the treatment. A little piece of cloth covering the sensitive part of the body is the only thing the patients need. The masseurs touch almost every inch of our skin, and sometimes two masseurs are treating one patient. I can understand that why, in India, men patients are only treated by men, which is contradictory to Shenzhen that customers can choose masseuses and look at their pictures.
Ayurvedic treatment can be enjoyed in Hong Kong. Details.
與中醫有點相似，按摩都是古老醫學哲學中的一部份。印度的傳統醫學，叫阿育吠陀，有六千年歷史。據了解，阿育吠陀的發源地便是喀拉拉邦。
按摩的時候，師傅會把用多種植物提煉的油塗上顧客身上再按摩。與中式推拿不一樣，按摩的力度不會太大，師傅一般都很柔。與深圳的玩樂式按摩不同的是，印度的按摩一般都是一小時。我除了按摩之外，還做了植物油蒸汽浴，簡單來說，就是排毒。做完一系列的療程後，身心真的放鬆了，效果比深圳三小時好。
除了喀拉拉邦外，印度各地也有類似的服務場所。除了是一小時的按摩外，大多數場所也提供為期數天的療程，當中的服務包括按摩及食療等。他們也教授瑜珈。我做的一小時按摩加十五分鐘蒸汽浴，最貴的要Rs1,300﹝HK$260﹞。
而斯里蘭卡的按摩也是一小時，收費為斯里蘭卡盧比2,200﹝包小費﹞，即港幣157元。按摩的手法比較像中式，有一點力度。
在此要提及一下，按摩時顧客是全裸或幾近全裸﹝最多是以一塊兜擋布遮掩敏感部位﹞。師傅觸及幾乎全身每寸皮膚，有時甚至是兩個師傅一起進行治療。因此，我可以理解為何在印度男性只會由男按摩師傅治療，而不像深圳的水療中心，顧客可以看技師照片及點女技師服務。
而所謂阿育吠陀，就是指生命的科學，其理念與中醫有點相似。
這學說認為世上萬物由五種要素組成。這五種要素包括土、空氣、風﹝是萬物活動的原則，負責人的神經反應、呼吸及循環系統等﹞、火﹝新陳代謝、胃口、物質的轉化及保持適當體溫﹞及水﹝保護人的身體﹞。
當五種要素的平衡失去時，毛病便出現。而治療就是要把恢復平衡。詳細資料可看這裡。
在香港，也有場所提供這種服務，詳情可看這裡。
Walking to and visiting different places is exhausting sometimes. I will always think of massage whenever I am tired. I have tried four massages, one in Sri Lanka, during this 16-day trip.
Similar to Chinese medicine, massage in India is part of a ancient medical philosophy. The traditional medicine of India is called Ayurveda, which means the knowledge of life. It has a history of 6,000 years and it is believed to be originated from Kerala. For details of Ayurveda, please click here.
The masseurs will pour the oil extracted from different plants to the patient to restore the balance of the five elements that made up the body. The massage is not as forceful as the Chinese way. The massage will only last for one hour, unlike what we have enjoyed from the entertainment massage in Shenzhen.
Apart from massage, I have also done herbal steam bath. Put it in a simple way, it is a kind of purification. I am really relaxed after having the treatment, which is much more effective than the three-hour enjoyment in Shenzhen.
Not only in Kerala, other Indian cities also have Ayurveda centres. Apart from one-hour massage, most of these centres also provide days long treatment, which include massage and diet therapy. They also have yoga classes. The most expensive one-hour massage and a 15-minute steam bath I have enjoyed cost Rs1,300 (HK$260).
Massage in Sri Lanka also lasts for one hour, and it cost LR2,200 (including tips), which is about HK$157. The massage is more forceful than it is in India, and more like the Chinese way.
Perhaps I have to mention that the patients are naked or almost naked during the treatment. A little piece of cloth covering the sensitive part of the body is the only thing the patients need. The masseurs touch almost every inch of our skin, and sometimes two masseurs are treating one patient. I can understand that why, in India, men patients are only treated by men, which is contradictory to Shenzhen that customers can choose masseuses and look at their pictures.
Ayurvedic treatment can be enjoyed in Hong Kong. Details.
南印度16天﹝十八﹞/斯里蘭卡科倫坡/16 days in South India (18)/ Colombo, Sri Lanka
日期：2007年10月8日/地點：斯里蘭卡科倫坡 Date: 08 October, 2007/ Place: Colombo, Sri Lanka
首先要說明，科倫坡不是印度的一部份，而是斯里蘭卡的首都。斯里蘭卡在1948年脫離殖民統治而獨立。這次旅程要在科倫坡逗留一天，純粹是因為要轉飛機。
除了是盛產茶葉外，我對這個「印度洋的眼淚」佛教國家一無所知。但我又不想整天待在酒店裡，而我又想買點茶葉，所以參加了市內觀光遊。
這市內觀光遊，其實只是租車及司機，並不是旅行團。費用一天50美元，很貴。其實我應該事先作資料搜集，找便宜而又豐富的行程，抑或自行坐公共交通遊覽。這樣應該可以節省30美元。
這天去的地方不多，最吸引的是國家博物館。這個博物館是英式建築，面積很大，裡面藏有很多佛教的珍品。博物館以前日久失修，但最近在某跨國大銀行的贊助下復修重開。
科倫坡的街道也算整潔，但市內常常看見苛槍實彈的軍人。如看電影般，有軍人在大廈天台持槍站崗。我的車到了一個很美的海灘與國會大廈等古典建築群，但這裡守衛嚴密，禁止拍照，而我的護照也被檢查。所有保安工作，完全是為了防範泰米爾之虎游擊隊。
今天的司機，原來是一個淫媒。上車後不久他便問我要不要女孩，我說不要，他又問我要不要男孩。還說性服務在科倫坡的收費比較貴，要40美元。而男孩的年齡最少只有15歲。事後我上網查資料，斯里蘭卡的報章也有報導當地色情事業的嚴重。
我的一位斯里蘭卡前同僚聽我說出這些惡棍惡行後，說他的家鄉已斷送給瘋癲的人。
I have to clarify that Colombo is not part of India. It is the capital of Sri Lanka, which has been independent since 1948. I need to stay in Colombo for one day for transit flight. I have no idea of this Buddhist country apart from knowing it is famous for tea plantation. I don’t want to waste the whole day staying inside the hotel and I want to buy some tea, therefore I join a city tour.
The city tour is not a tour indeed. It is hiring a car and a driver, costing US$50. This is very expensive. I should have either searched some background information, and looked for cheaper and better organized tour before or taken public transportation, which could help me saving at least US$30.
I have not been to many places. The most impressive place is the National Museum, which is built in British architectural style. It is a huge museum that displays a lot of Buddhist treasure. The museum had not been repaired for many years until recently when a multi-national banking cooperation decided to sponsor the renovation.
The streets of Colombo are neat and tidy. But armed military officers are always seen. Just like a movie, it is commonly seen that armed officers standing on the top floor of buildings. My car has passed by a beautiful beach and a cluster of classical architects that include the old parliament house. But security is tight in the area and photography is prohibited. I also have my passport checked. These security arrangements are implemented against the Tamil Tiger rebel.
The driver is also a prostitute agent. He has asked me whether I need Sri Lankan girl shortly after I get into the car. I replied no, and he asked me whether I need boys! He even told me that sex service in Colombo cost US$40, which is more expensive than other parts of Sri Lanka. I have found through the internet that the seriousness of the sex industry is reported by Sri Lanka newspaper.
One of my ex-colleagues, who is a Sri Lankan, is unaware of such mafia people and says his home has gone to dogs.
首先要說明，科倫坡不是印度的一部份，而是斯里蘭卡的首都。斯里蘭卡在1948年脫離殖民統治而獨立。這次旅程要在科倫坡逗留一天，純粹是因為要轉飛機。
除了是盛產茶葉外，我對這個「印度洋的眼淚」佛教國家一無所知。但我又不想整天待在酒店裡，而我又想買點茶葉，所以參加了市內觀光遊。
這市內觀光遊，其實只是租車及司機，並不是旅行團。費用一天50美元，很貴。其實我應該事先作資料搜集，找便宜而又豐富的行程，抑或自行坐公共交通遊覽。這樣應該可以節省30美元。
這天去的地方不多，最吸引的是國家博物館。這個博物館是英式建築，面積很大，裡面藏有很多佛教的珍品。博物館以前日久失修，但最近在某跨國大銀行的贊助下復修重開。
科倫坡的街道也算整潔，但市內常常看見苛槍實彈的軍人。如看電影般，有軍人在大廈天台持槍站崗。我的車到了一個很美的海灘與國會大廈等古典建築群，但這裡守衛嚴密，禁止拍照，而我的護照也被檢查。所有保安工作，完全是為了防範泰米爾之虎游擊隊。
今天的司機，原來是一個淫媒。上車後不久他便問我要不要女孩，我說不要，他又問我要不要男孩。還說性服務在科倫坡的收費比較貴，要40美元。而男孩的年齡最少只有15歲。事後我上網查資料，斯里蘭卡的報章也有報導當地色情事業的嚴重。
我的一位斯里蘭卡前同僚聽我說出這些惡棍惡行後，說他的家鄉已斷送給瘋癲的人。
I have to clarify that Colombo is not part of India. It is the capital of Sri Lanka, which has been independent since 1948. I need to stay in Colombo for one day for transit flight. I have no idea of this Buddhist country apart from knowing it is famous for tea plantation. I don’t want to waste the whole day staying inside the hotel and I want to buy some tea, therefore I join a city tour.
The city tour is not a tour indeed. It is hiring a car and a driver, costing US$50. This is very expensive. I should have either searched some background information, and looked for cheaper and better organized tour before or taken public transportation, which could help me saving at least US$30.
I have not been to many places. The most impressive place is the National Museum, which is built in British architectural style. It is a huge museum that displays a lot of Buddhist treasure. The museum had not been repaired for many years until recently when a multi-national banking cooperation decided to sponsor the renovation.
The streets of Colombo are neat and tidy. But armed military officers are always seen. Just like a movie, it is commonly seen that armed officers standing on the top floor of buildings. My car has passed by a beautiful beach and a cluster of classical architects that include the old parliament house. But security is tight in the area and photography is prohibited. I also have my passport checked. These security arrangements are implemented against the Tamil Tiger rebel.
The driver is also a prostitute agent. He has asked me whether I need Sri Lankan girl shortly after I get into the car. I replied no, and he asked me whether I need boys! He even told me that sex service in Colombo cost US$40, which is more expensive than other parts of Sri Lanka. I have found through the internet that the seriousness of the sex industry is reported by Sri Lanka newspaper.
One of my ex-colleagues, who is a Sri Lankan, is unaware of such mafia people and says his home has gone to dogs.
南印度16天﹝十七﹞/食物/16 days in South India (17)/ Food
南印度最出名的食物是Masala Dosa，簡單來說，這是一種薄脆的卷餅，裡面是素菜及香料。很香脆。一直以來，我也不知道吃這卷餅的正確方法，只當它是一客熱狗。直至在班加羅爾的Ulla’s Refreshment，店員看見我的吃相，才告知我應該把這個餅卷起，然後撕開一小件，再點醬汁。
班加羅爾的Indian Coffee House，除了咖啡美味外，餐廳本身就是一人文風景。
這間咖啡室在殖民地時代已開張，時至今天，店員還穿著白袍製服及扣上粗大的紅色腰帶，牆上也掛上咖啡海報。而除班加羅爾外，印度其他城市也有這咖啡室。
Masala Dosa is the most famous delicacy in South India. It is a crispy roll pizza with herbs and vegetable inside. I did not know the proper way of eating this delicacy until I went to Ulla’s Refreshment in Bangalore. Having seen my confused facial expression, the waiters told me to roll the whole pizza, then tear it into pieces before putting the sauce in.
The Indian Coffee House in Bangalore is a living human attraction itself even though you don’t order the tasty coffee. The coffee house has been established during the colonial period, and until today, the waiters are still wearing white turbans and buckled red belts. The coffee poster hanging on the wall is also impressive.
班加羅爾的Indian Coffee House，除了咖啡美味外，餐廳本身就是一人文風景。
這間咖啡室在殖民地時代已開張，時至今天，店員還穿著白袍製服及扣上粗大的紅色腰帶，牆上也掛上咖啡海報。而除班加羅爾外，印度其他城市也有這咖啡室。
Masala Dosa is the most famous delicacy in South India. It is a crispy roll pizza with herbs and vegetable inside. I did not know the proper way of eating this delicacy until I went to Ulla’s Refreshment in Bangalore. Having seen my confused facial expression, the waiters told me to roll the whole pizza, then tear it into pieces before putting the sauce in.
The Indian Coffee House in Bangalore is a living human attraction itself even though you don’t order the tasty coffee. The coffee house has been established during the colonial period, and until today, the waiters are still wearing white turbans and buckled red belts. The coffee poster hanging on the wall is also impressive.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
16 days in South India (16)/ Bangalore.
Date:07 Oct, 2007. Place: Bangalore, Karnataka
As Indian Silicon Valley, Bangalore is getting rich on information technology development. Ladies in the previous destination wear Saree. In Bangalore, people become fashionable, and wear T-shirt and jeans.
Bangalore becomes the first Indian city to get electricity supply in 1905. The establishment of Infosys in 1981 laid the foundation for IT development. The city is the highlight of Thomas L Friedman The World is Flat.
Today, I join a 4-hour tour by www.bangalorewalks.com. The tour organizer is a Bangalore native who has lived in overseas countries, such as United States. He has witnessed a lot of changes and development are taking place in his home after going back to India, and history is disappearing, prompting him to explore and promote the past of Bangalore. The 4-hour tour is very informative.
The contemporary history of Bangalore is started from 18th century. The British started colonial war against India after it was defeated in the American independent war. In 1799, the British defeated the king of Mysore, and used Bangalore as a military base.
The British invasion had introduced missionaries and churches to the city. Bangalore was a backward city at that time, and things were waiting to be done. The British had attracted Indians around the country for infrastructure work in the city, and attracted British soldiers to come to Bangalore with lands. In Mahatma Gandhi Road, there were once private residencies occupying huge land. Some private residencies even include a tennis court.
But the old town of Bangalore was still governed by the king of Mysore. The new and old town is divided by Cubbon Park. And the differences between the new and old town is still obvious till today. The new town is energetic for changes, while the old town is sticking to tradition.
The churches built by the British were not welcomed by the locals at that time. Many of them said the churches were the place for ``having the heads chopped’’. It was probably because the churches were built for military officers, which should be regarded as military facilities and establishments that made people fearful.
Apart from churches, schools and infrastructure, the British had also brought Bangalore with bars. Bars are still commonly seen even today. With more income generated by IT development, people in Bangalore love going to bars, making the area lively at night. I have seen many people from Southeast Asia here. I cannot distinguish whether they are Japanese, and whether they are overseas born Chinese. I believe most of them are attracted to the city by IT development. We can see proof that India is waking up.
Large department stores are everywhere, and prices are expensive. I needed to pay Rs356 for a dinner at Elbony last night, which included a soup, mutton and a bottle of water. This is 10 times more expensive than my previous lunches, which cost only Rs31. A room for two people also cost Rs795, several times higher than the previous destinations.
But not all of the people are getting rich. Poverty sudden confronts you when you are appreciating the stable life enjoyed by the people. Poverty gap in the city is serious. I have seen women in saree holding their babies begging for money after finishing dinner at Elbony. I have also seen some hawkers in the street. This makes me feel sad. The dinner at Elbony only cost HK$70, but this amount is significant to the poor people. HK$70 is enough for feeding these people for so many days. How many people can benefit from the tourism income? Is it always the situation that wealth is concentrated in the hands of few people? What is the meaning of development if a large group of people is not benefit? And development also causes pollution.
Lift operator: Hope he will feel happy for a while by having this picture taken.
Asking for direction in this city is difficult. It is not because the people are not friendly, but mainly either because they cannot speak in English or they don’t know the direction. Asking for direction is very easy in the previous destinations. I believe it is because the citizens of the small town have never left their home.
I found that the staff and owner of guesthouses were friendly and eager to introduce visitors their India when I was traveling in the North four years ago. I became aware of Bollywood movies because the owner of a guesthouse in Jaipur introduced it to me.
But I do not feel such atmosphere in Mysore and Bangalore. I have only seen a big reception counter after entering the guesthouses. Staff are polite and effective, but they are also cold in quoting the room charges. It seems that they are only reciting the stuff written in the travel guidebook when you ask for traffic information. I have no intention to ask them the characteristics of the cities.
Price is a top priority for choosing guesthouse, and friendly people are the second. I don’t need a swimming pool and gym room. I would rather chat with the owners than watching satellite TV. I would appreciate staff and owners who will try their best to look for answers to my questions.
I want to be greeted by the owners and staff when I wake up or finished my tour. I want to be asked whether I want a cup of coffee and whether I need hot shower. I don’t want to be indifferently told that hot shower between 6am and 10am.
Maybe my previous guesthouses are too impressive, making me difficult to get used to Mysore and Bangalore.
As Indian Silicon Valley, Bangalore is getting rich on information technology development. Ladies in the previous destination wear Saree. In Bangalore, people become fashionable, and wear T-shirt and jeans.
Bangalore becomes the first Indian city to get electricity supply in 1905. The establishment of Infosys in 1981 laid the foundation for IT development. The city is the highlight of Thomas L Friedman The World is Flat.
Today, I join a 4-hour tour by www.bangalorewalks.com. The tour organizer is a Bangalore native who has lived in overseas countries, such as United States. He has witnessed a lot of changes and development are taking place in his home after going back to India, and history is disappearing, prompting him to explore and promote the past of Bangalore. The 4-hour tour is very informative.
The contemporary history of Bangalore is started from 18th century. The British started colonial war against India after it was defeated in the American independent war. In 1799, the British defeated the king of Mysore, and used Bangalore as a military base.
The British invasion had introduced missionaries and churches to the city. Bangalore was a backward city at that time, and things were waiting to be done. The British had attracted Indians around the country for infrastructure work in the city, and attracted British soldiers to come to Bangalore with lands. In Mahatma Gandhi Road, there were once private residencies occupying huge land. Some private residencies even include a tennis court.
But the old town of Bangalore was still governed by the king of Mysore. The new and old town is divided by Cubbon Park. And the differences between the new and old town is still obvious till today. The new town is energetic for changes, while the old town is sticking to tradition.
The churches built by the British were not welcomed by the locals at that time. Many of them said the churches were the place for ``having the heads chopped’’. It was probably because the churches were built for military officers, which should be regarded as military facilities and establishments that made people fearful.
Apart from churches, schools and infrastructure, the British had also brought Bangalore with bars. Bars are still commonly seen even today. With more income generated by IT development, people in Bangalore love going to bars, making the area lively at night. I have seen many people from Southeast Asia here. I cannot distinguish whether they are Japanese, and whether they are overseas born Chinese. I believe most of them are attracted to the city by IT development. We can see proof that India is waking up.
Large department stores are everywhere, and prices are expensive. I needed to pay Rs356 for a dinner at Elbony last night, which included a soup, mutton and a bottle of water. This is 10 times more expensive than my previous lunches, which cost only Rs31. A room for two people also cost Rs795, several times higher than the previous destinations.
But not all of the people are getting rich. Poverty sudden confronts you when you are appreciating the stable life enjoyed by the people. Poverty gap in the city is serious. I have seen women in saree holding their babies begging for money after finishing dinner at Elbony. I have also seen some hawkers in the street. This makes me feel sad. The dinner at Elbony only cost HK$70, but this amount is significant to the poor people. HK$70 is enough for feeding these people for so many days. How many people can benefit from the tourism income? Is it always the situation that wealth is concentrated in the hands of few people? What is the meaning of development if a large group of people is not benefit? And development also causes pollution.
Lift operator: Hope he will feel happy for a while by having this picture taken.
Asking for direction in this city is difficult. It is not because the people are not friendly, but mainly either because they cannot speak in English or they don’t know the direction. Asking for direction is very easy in the previous destinations. I believe it is because the citizens of the small town have never left their home.
I found that the staff and owner of guesthouses were friendly and eager to introduce visitors their India when I was traveling in the North four years ago. I became aware of Bollywood movies because the owner of a guesthouse in Jaipur introduced it to me.
But I do not feel such atmosphere in Mysore and Bangalore. I have only seen a big reception counter after entering the guesthouses. Staff are polite and effective, but they are also cold in quoting the room charges. It seems that they are only reciting the stuff written in the travel guidebook when you ask for traffic information. I have no intention to ask them the characteristics of the cities.
Price is a top priority for choosing guesthouse, and friendly people are the second. I don’t need a swimming pool and gym room. I would rather chat with the owners than watching satellite TV. I would appreciate staff and owners who will try their best to look for answers to my questions.
I want to be greeted by the owners and staff when I wake up or finished my tour. I want to be asked whether I want a cup of coffee and whether I need hot shower. I don’t want to be indifferently told that hot shower between 6am and 10am.
Maybe my previous guesthouses are too impressive, making me difficult to get used to Mysore and Bangalore.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
南印度16天﹝十六﹞/班加羅爾16 days in South India (16)/ Bangalore.
日期：2007年10月07日/ 地點：卡納塔克邦班加羅爾Date:07 Oct, 2007. Place: Bangalore, Karnataka
班加羅爾作業印度矽谷，因為資訊科技的發展而富起來。在早前的目的地，女士大多穿傳統的紗麗，男士則恤衫西褲。在這裡，人的打扮變得入時，不論男女也是T恤牛仔褲。
班加羅爾於1905年成為印度首個有電力供應的城市。至1981年科技公司Infosys成立，奠下了資訊科技事業的發展基礎。這城市甚至成為Thomas L Friedman名著The World is Flat的題材。
今天參加了www.bangalorewalks.com 的4小時行程。舉辦旅程的人是班加羅爾人，在美國等外地生活過，回印度後，發覺家鄉經歷急劇的發展與變化，歷史正流逝，因而開始發挖及推廣家鄉的過去。這4小時的行程很有教育性。
要認識這城市的現代史，便要從18世紀開始。當時英人在美國獨立戰爭敗仗，展開印度殖民之戰，在1799年打敗米索爾藩王，以班加羅爾作為軍事據點。
英軍入侵後帶來了傳教士及教堂。當時的班加羅爾百廢待興，因此英軍也從印度各地吸引勞工大興土木。當局又以土地吸引更多英軍到印度。在甘地路，從前就有很多佔地面積極大的住宅，甚至私人網球場也有。
但班加羅爾的老城當時仍然由米索爾藩王管理。新城及老城之間以庫邦公園作為分界，時至今天，兩城的分別仍清晰可見。一邊是活力求變，另一邊則好像固守傳統。
而當時班加羅爾的教堂也不是人人夠膽進入。這些教堂都被當地人稱為「斷頭台」，大抵是因為教堂是為軍人而建，屬軍事設施，令人畏懼。
除教堂、學校及基建外，英軍也帶來了酒吧。時至今天這裡仍有很多酒吧。隨資訊科技的發展，人也富起來。這裡的酒吧夜夜笙歌。在這裡也可以見到很多東南亞人士。我弄不清他們是中國人、日本人還是外藉華裔，但大抵他們都被資訊科技所吸引吧。印度是亞洲一個正在甦醒的大國，在這裡可見一斑。
這裡的百貨店林立，物價高漲。昨晚去Elbony餐廳晚膳，只叫了一客湯、一樽水及一味羊肉前菜，便要Rs356。相比起之前Rs31的午餐貴了10倍。而一間雙人房也要Rs795，比之前的城市貴幾倍。
但不是所有人也富起來。當你以為這裡的人生活安穩時，貧窮突然在你眼前出現。這裡的貧富懸殊嚴重。昨晚去Elbony餐廳晚膳後，在街上看見一些穿傳統紗麗的婦女手抱嬰兒向人乞討。在街上也看見一些小販。我感到難過。在Elbony餐廳的一餐才用了70港元，但對這裡的人來說，這金額不知可以提供多少餐溫飽。我為這國家帶來的旅遊收益究竟可以幫助多少人？財富是否永遠都集中在一部份人手中？如果有一大班人不能得益，發展又有何意義？而且，發展亦衍生污染問題。
電梯操作員：希望給他拍一張照可以令他開心一陣子。
在這裡問路是一年難事。不是因為當地人不友善，而是他們不太懂英語，懂英語的又不知路況。在之前的目的地，問路易如反掌，我想是因為這些小城的居民由小至大生長在同一地方，對社區有較多認識。
我又回想，四年前去北印度時，即使是大城市如德里及齋浦爾，旅館老闆及員工都很親切待人，誠懇地把他們的印度介紹給住客。我就是因為齋浦爾旅館老闆的介紹才知道Bollywood電影。
但在米索爾及班加羅爾的旅館，我沒有這感受。一走進旅館，看見的只是一大個接待櫃台，職員是有禮的，但他們也是冷漠而有效率地工作及報上房價。你問他們交通資訊，他們好像唸書的說給你聽。我沒有意欲問他們這兩個城市的特色。
我選擇旅館，除了價錢便宜外，另一個原因是，我不需要泳池及健身房等設施。我寧可跟老闆們聊天也不想看衛星電視。而當我有查詢時，即使他們不知答案，也盡力找相關資料。
我喜歡起床或行程完畢回旅館時，老闆及職員跟你打聲招呼，問你要不要咖啡及熱水浴，而不是冷漠地說熱水只在早上6時至10時供應。
也許是之前的旅館太好，令我不太適應米索爾及班加羅爾。
班加羅爾作業印度矽谷，因為資訊科技的發展而富起來。在早前的目的地，女士大多穿傳統的紗麗，男士則恤衫西褲。在這裡，人的打扮變得入時，不論男女也是T恤牛仔褲。
班加羅爾於1905年成為印度首個有電力供應的城市。至1981年科技公司Infosys成立，奠下了資訊科技事業的發展基礎。這城市甚至成為Thomas L Friedman名著The World is Flat的題材。
今天參加了www.bangalorewalks.com 的4小時行程。舉辦旅程的人是班加羅爾人，在美國等外地生活過，回印度後，發覺家鄉經歷急劇的發展與變化，歷史正流逝，因而開始發挖及推廣家鄉的過去。這4小時的行程很有教育性。
要認識這城市的現代史，便要從18世紀開始。當時英人在美國獨立戰爭敗仗，展開印度殖民之戰，在1799年打敗米索爾藩王，以班加羅爾作為軍事據點。
英軍入侵後帶來了傳教士及教堂。當時的班加羅爾百廢待興，因此英軍也從印度各地吸引勞工大興土木。當局又以土地吸引更多英軍到印度。在甘地路，從前就有很多佔地面積極大的住宅，甚至私人網球場也有。
但班加羅爾的老城當時仍然由米索爾藩王管理。新城及老城之間以庫邦公園作為分界，時至今天，兩城的分別仍清晰可見。一邊是活力求變，另一邊則好像固守傳統。
而當時班加羅爾的教堂也不是人人夠膽進入。這些教堂都被當地人稱為「斷頭台」，大抵是因為教堂是為軍人而建，屬軍事設施，令人畏懼。
除教堂、學校及基建外，英軍也帶來了酒吧。時至今天這裡仍有很多酒吧。隨資訊科技的發展，人也富起來。這裡的酒吧夜夜笙歌。在這裡也可以見到很多東南亞人士。我弄不清他們是中國人、日本人還是外藉華裔，但大抵他們都被資訊科技所吸引吧。印度是亞洲一個正在甦醒的大國，在這裡可見一斑。
這裡的百貨店林立，物價高漲。昨晚去Elbony餐廳晚膳，只叫了一客湯、一樽水及一味羊肉前菜，便要Rs356。相比起之前Rs31的午餐貴了10倍。而一間雙人房也要Rs795，比之前的城市貴幾倍。
但不是所有人也富起來。當你以為這裡的人生活安穩時，貧窮突然在你眼前出現。這裡的貧富懸殊嚴重。昨晚去Elbony餐廳晚膳後，在街上看見一些穿傳統紗麗的婦女手抱嬰兒向人乞討。在街上也看見一些小販。我感到難過。在Elbony餐廳的一餐才用了70港元，但對這裡的人來說，這金額不知可以提供多少餐溫飽。我為這國家帶來的旅遊收益究竟可以幫助多少人？財富是否永遠都集中在一部份人手中？如果有一大班人不能得益，發展又有何意義？而且，發展亦衍生污染問題。
電梯操作員：希望給他拍一張照可以令他開心一陣子。
在這裡問路是一年難事。不是因為當地人不友善，而是他們不太懂英語，懂英語的又不知路況。在之前的目的地，問路易如反掌，我想是因為這些小城的居民由小至大生長在同一地方，對社區有較多認識。
我又回想，四年前去北印度時，即使是大城市如德里及齋浦爾，旅館老闆及員工都很親切待人，誠懇地把他們的印度介紹給住客。我就是因為齋浦爾旅館老闆的介紹才知道Bollywood電影。
但在米索爾及班加羅爾的旅館，我沒有這感受。一走進旅館，看見的只是一大個接待櫃台，職員是有禮的，但他們也是冷漠而有效率地工作及報上房價。你問他們交通資訊，他們好像唸書的說給你聽。我沒有意欲問他們這兩個城市的特色。
我選擇旅館，除了價錢便宜外，另一個原因是，我不需要泳池及健身房等設施。我寧可跟老闆們聊天也不想看衛星電視。而當我有查詢時，即使他們不知答案，也盡力找相關資料。
我喜歡起床或行程完畢回旅館時，老闆及職員跟你打聲招呼，問你要不要咖啡及熱水浴，而不是冷漠地說熱水只在早上6時至10時供應。
也許是之前的旅館太好，令我不太適應米索爾及班加羅爾。
南印度16天﹝十五﹞/去米索爾16 days in South India (15)/ Going to Mysore.
日期：2007年10月05及06日/ 地點：卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里去米索爾Date:05 & 06 Oct, 2007. Place: Madikeri to Mysore, Karnataka
臨走前先到馬蒂科里的市集逛。這裡很有活力。這裡賣的東西繁多，有各種蔬菜、椰子及衣物等。各小販大聲叫賣，加上色彩繽紛的蔬菜，令市集氣氛熱鬧及富有色彩。
下午到米索爾，可能是大城市的關係吧，三輪車司機有點古惑，而住的地方環境又不太好，很嘈雜。決定明天去市集及米索爾藩王宮殿後便到班加羅爾。
翌日早上六時起床去Devaraja Market看。寂寞星球說這市集是印度色彩最繽紛的地方之一，但我覺得馬蒂科里的市集比較豐富。
較吸引我的反而是建於1876年的Krishnara Jendra Hospital，這建築物很古典。而附近的醫學院也不錯。
之後到米索爾藩王宮殿。這藩王宮殿用了15年時間及450萬盧比興建。雖然比起北印度的宮殿，米索爾是較為遜色，但也值得一看。宮殿的雕花很吸引，特別是那些孔雀羽毛的圖案。而大門的銀佛像亦令人嘆為觀止。
可惜的是宮殿內禁止拍照。我懷疑除了要保護文物外，當局還想逼人買明信片。
我與澳洲人Henrietta，成為眾人的焦點，一班印度學生不停地要求合照，像追捧電影明星般。
I walk around the market of Madikeri before leaving for Mysore. The market sells a lot of stuff, including vegs, coconuts and clothes. The hawkers are shouting what they sell, and combined with the colorful vegs, the market is lively.
I go to Mysore in the afternoon. Maybe because Mysore is a big city, the rickshaw drivers are a little bit tricky. The environment of the guesthouse is not good as it is noisy. I have decided to go Bangalore tomorrow afternoon after visiting the Devaraja Market and Mysore Palace.
I wake up at 6am for the Devaraja Market. Lonely Planet says the market is one of the most colourful places in India, but I believe the one in Madikeri is better.
What attracts me is the Krishnara Jendra Hospital, which is built in 1876. This is a building in classical architectural style. The adjacent Medical College is also nice.
I also visit the Mysore Palace, which was built in 15 years and with Rs4.5 million. The Palace is not as magnificent as those in the North, but it is still worth visiting. The carved patterns in the glass is breath taking, especially the peacock hair patterns. The silver Buddha image in the door is another highlight.
But photography is not allowed inside the palace. I suspect that the authority want to force tourists buying postcard other than protecting the monument.
I and Australian tourist Henrietta become the spotlight. A group of Indian students keep asking for being photographed with us, as if they are supporting a movie star.
臨走前先到馬蒂科里的市集逛。這裡很有活力。這裡賣的東西繁多，有各種蔬菜、椰子及衣物等。各小販大聲叫賣，加上色彩繽紛的蔬菜，令市集氣氛熱鬧及富有色彩。
下午到米索爾，可能是大城市的關係吧，三輪車司機有點古惑，而住的地方環境又不太好，很嘈雜。決定明天去市集及米索爾藩王宮殿後便到班加羅爾。
翌日早上六時起床去Devaraja Market看。寂寞星球說這市集是印度色彩最繽紛的地方之一，但我覺得馬蒂科里的市集比較豐富。
較吸引我的反而是建於1876年的Krishnara Jendra Hospital，這建築物很古典。而附近的醫學院也不錯。
之後到米索爾藩王宮殿。這藩王宮殿用了15年時間及450萬盧比興建。雖然比起北印度的宮殿，米索爾是較為遜色，但也值得一看。宮殿的雕花很吸引，特別是那些孔雀羽毛的圖案。而大門的銀佛像亦令人嘆為觀止。
可惜的是宮殿內禁止拍照。我懷疑除了要保護文物外，當局還想逼人買明信片。
我與澳洲人Henrietta，成為眾人的焦點，一班印度學生不停地要求合照，像追捧電影明星般。
I walk around the market of Madikeri before leaving for Mysore. The market sells a lot of stuff, including vegs, coconuts and clothes. The hawkers are shouting what they sell, and combined with the colorful vegs, the market is lively.
I go to Mysore in the afternoon. Maybe because Mysore is a big city, the rickshaw drivers are a little bit tricky. The environment of the guesthouse is not good as it is noisy. I have decided to go Bangalore tomorrow afternoon after visiting the Devaraja Market and Mysore Palace.
I wake up at 6am for the Devaraja Market. Lonely Planet says the market is one of the most colourful places in India, but I believe the one in Madikeri is better.
What attracts me is the Krishnara Jendra Hospital, which is built in 1876. This is a building in classical architectural style. The adjacent Medical College is also nice.
I also visit the Mysore Palace, which was built in 15 years and with Rs4.5 million. The Palace is not as magnificent as those in the North, but it is still worth visiting. The carved patterns in the glass is breath taking, especially the peacock hair patterns. The silver Buddha image in the door is another highlight.
But photography is not allowed inside the palace. I suspect that the authority want to force tourists buying postcard other than protecting the monument.
I and Australian tourist Henrietta become the spotlight. A group of Indian students keep asking for being photographed with us, as if they are supporting a movie star.
南印度16天﹝十四﹞/西藏人屯墾區16 days in South India (14)/ Tibetan Settlement.
日期：2007年10月04日/ 地點：卡納塔克邦拜拉庫比Date:04 Oct, 2007. Place: Bylakuppe, Karnataka
是日到馬蒂科里附近的西藏人屯墾區拜拉庫比。
1950年代，印度卡納塔克邦政府把1,200公頃土地給西藏流亡人士居住，這個屯墾區從此建立。
若要在屯墾區逗留超過一天，便要在預早兩個月前向德里當局申請許可，否則只可逗留一天。
值得注意的是下午3時，有過千名僧侶在色拉傑僧伽大學一起頌經。
而南卓林寺的金佛像也是另一重點。
這個社區氣氛平靜，局民態度友善。一位居民見我步行去色拉傑僧伽大學，主動以電單車免費送我一程。
但氣氛平靜不代表僧侶們與世隔絕。他們除了學習經文外，亦要上其他課，例如化學等。而寺廟內亦有網吧，收費每小時Rs30。
寺廟外有很多藏人餐廳，那味牛肉餃子十分好吃。
晚上，屋主Anoop帶我去聽一場古典音樂會。音樂會的對象主要是中學生，因此大會特別安排問答環節，讓學生與樂隊交流。我由此知道古典印度曲的歌詞不是印地語，而是另一種語言，因為那語言比較動聽。
I visit the Tibetan settlement in Bylakuppe, which is close to Madikeri.
The Karnataka government decided to give 1,200 hectares of lands for the Tibetans in 1950’s, and the community has been established since then.
Tourists need to apply for a special permit with authority in Delhi two months prior to their visits if they intend to stay in the community overnight. They can only stay one day without the permit.
The highlight of today visit is that more than 1,000 monks reading their holy text together at 3pm in Sera Jey Monastic University. The golden Buddha in Namdroling Temple is another highlight.
The community is peaceful, and the people are friendly. A Tibetan gives me a free ride to Sera Jey Monastic University.
But peaceful atmosphere does not mean that the monks are disconnected with the outside world. They need to learn other subjects, such as chemistry, other than the holy text. There is also an internet bar inside the temple, costing Rs30 per hour.
There are a lot of Tibetan restaurants in the community, and the beef momo is very delicious.
Anoop takes me to a classical Indian concert at night. The main target audiences are secondary students, who are allowed to interact with the bands in the question-and-answer session. This makes me know that a lot of classical Indian songs are not written in Hindi, but another language that sounds more beautiful.
是日到馬蒂科里附近的西藏人屯墾區拜拉庫比。
1950年代，印度卡納塔克邦政府把1,200公頃土地給西藏流亡人士居住，這個屯墾區從此建立。
若要在屯墾區逗留超過一天，便要在預早兩個月前向德里當局申請許可，否則只可逗留一天。
值得注意的是下午3時，有過千名僧侶在色拉傑僧伽大學一起頌經。
而南卓林寺的金佛像也是另一重點。
這個社區氣氛平靜，局民態度友善。一位居民見我步行去色拉傑僧伽大學，主動以電單車免費送我一程。
但氣氛平靜不代表僧侶們與世隔絕。他們除了學習經文外，亦要上其他課，例如化學等。而寺廟內亦有網吧，收費每小時Rs30。
寺廟外有很多藏人餐廳，那味牛肉餃子十分好吃。
晚上，屋主Anoop帶我去聽一場古典音樂會。音樂會的對象主要是中學生，因此大會特別安排問答環節，讓學生與樂隊交流。我由此知道古典印度曲的歌詞不是印地語，而是另一種語言，因為那語言比較動聽。
I visit the Tibetan settlement in Bylakuppe, which is close to Madikeri.
The Karnataka government decided to give 1,200 hectares of lands for the Tibetans in 1950’s, and the community has been established since then.
Tourists need to apply for a special permit with authority in Delhi two months prior to their visits if they intend to stay in the community overnight. They can only stay one day without the permit.
The highlight of today visit is that more than 1,000 monks reading their holy text together at 3pm in Sera Jey Monastic University. The golden Buddha in Namdroling Temple is another highlight.
The community is peaceful, and the people are friendly. A Tibetan gives me a free ride to Sera Jey Monastic University.
But peaceful atmosphere does not mean that the monks are disconnected with the outside world. They need to learn other subjects, such as chemistry, other than the holy text. There is also an internet bar inside the temple, costing Rs30 per hour.
There are a lot of Tibetan restaurants in the community, and the beef momo is very delicious.
Anoop takes me to a classical Indian concert at night. The main target audiences are secondary students, who are allowed to interact with the bands in the question-and-answer session. This makes me know that a lot of classical Indian songs are not written in Hindi, but another language that sounds more beautiful.
南印度16天﹝十三﹞/印式快餐 16 days in South India (13)/ Indian fast food.
日期：2007年10月03日/ 地點：卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:03 Oct, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka
今天的午餐很特別。在Anoop的介紹下去了一間名叫Krishna的餐廳用膳。這餐廳提供印度快餐。
餐廳的上菜速度極快。坐下後，店員立即把餐盤奉上。餐盤有飯、蔬菜及各式調味汁。
在如此地道的餐廳用餐，當然要用地道的方式品嚐食物。因此我沒有用餐具，以手進食。
除了餐盤外，店員沒有間斷地把其他各種食物奉上。這些食物當然要另外計錢。
那餐盤要Rs15(HK$3)，另外我要了一塊Chapati、兩塊wada及兩件油炸食物，另加Rs16。這填滿肚子的午餐只需Rs31(HK$6)！
另外，我也買了2包250克的咖啡粉及37包100克的咖啡粉給朋友。一共花了Rs629.5，即港幣130元，很便宜。
南印度的咖啡是很出名的，常被出口國外。
Today’s lunch is very special. I have my lunch at Krishna restaurant under Anoop’s recommendation.
Service of the restaurant is very speedy. A food tray including rice, vegs and various sauce will be put on the table once you are seated.
Of course, I need to eat in Indian way in such local restaurant. So, no folks and spoons, and I need to eat with fingers.
The staff also keep giving us other food, and of course we have to pay for that.
The food tray cost Rs15 (HK$3). I have ordered one chapatti, two wada and two fried items, costing Rs16 in total. A full lunch only cost Rs31(HK$6)!
And I have bought two packs of 250g coffee powder and 37 packs of 100g coffee powder to my friends, costing Rs629.5, which is only HK$130.
South India coffee is very famous and always exported to other countries.
今天的午餐很特別。在Anoop的介紹下去了一間名叫Krishna的餐廳用膳。這餐廳提供印度快餐。
餐廳的上菜速度極快。坐下後，店員立即把餐盤奉上。餐盤有飯、蔬菜及各式調味汁。
在如此地道的餐廳用餐，當然要用地道的方式品嚐食物。因此我沒有用餐具，以手進食。
除了餐盤外，店員沒有間斷地把其他各種食物奉上。這些食物當然要另外計錢。
那餐盤要Rs15(HK$3)，另外我要了一塊Chapati、兩塊wada及兩件油炸食物，另加Rs16。這填滿肚子的午餐只需Rs31(HK$6)！
另外，我也買了2包250克的咖啡粉及37包100克的咖啡粉給朋友。一共花了Rs629.5，即港幣130元，很便宜。
南印度的咖啡是很出名的，常被出口國外。
Today’s lunch is very special. I have my lunch at Krishna restaurant under Anoop’s recommendation.
Service of the restaurant is very speedy. A food tray including rice, vegs and various sauce will be put on the table once you are seated.
Of course, I need to eat in Indian way in such local restaurant. So, no folks and spoons, and I need to eat with fingers.
The staff also keep giving us other food, and of course we have to pay for that.
The food tray cost Rs15 (HK$3). I have ordered one chapatti, two wada and two fried items, costing Rs16 in total. A full lunch only cost Rs31(HK$6)!
And I have bought two packs of 250g coffee powder and 37 packs of 100g coffee powder to my friends, costing Rs629.5, which is only HK$130.
South India coffee is very famous and always exported to other countries.
南印度16天﹝十二﹞/馬蒂科里 16 days in South India (12)/ Madikeri
日期：2007年10月02日/ 地點：卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:02 Oct, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka
神所創造的大自然，真的很奇妙美好。
今天與法藉夫婦及坐Anoop的四駒車去他的鄉村。途中經過他的祖屋及一間荒廢了的寺廟，這寺廟的風格也可以在柬埔寨的吳哥窟看到。
途中也經過稻田、薑田及咖啡種植園。Anoop當然也給我們講解途中見到的植物。
在他的其中一間村屋，我們享用了簡單的午餐，就是香蕉葉包飯。這天幾乎什麼也沒有做，只是看風景及聽Anoop說他的故事。
今天也嚐了人生的第一次，包括飲用印度山邊的溪水及被水蛭吸血。
大自然如此美好，保育是必要的。在城市中真的要減少消耗能源，例如少開冷氣。
The natural environment created by God is really breath taking.
I and the French couple go to Anoop’s village by one of his Land Rovers. We pass by his ancestral home and a vacant temple. The temple architectural style can now be seen in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.
We also pass by paddy fields, ginger fields and coffee plantation. Anoop of course has explained to us the plantation we see.
We enjoy simple lunch – rice wrapped with banana leaf – in one of Anoop’s village home. We have done almost nothing today, except looking at the scenery and listening to Anoop’s stories.
I have also experienced something new to my life today, including drinking stream water and giving out my blood to leeches.
The natural environment is always impressive that need to be preserved. We should all reduce energy consumption in the city, such as using less air-conditioning.
神所創造的大自然，真的很奇妙美好。
今天與法藉夫婦及坐Anoop的四駒車去他的鄉村。途中經過他的祖屋及一間荒廢了的寺廟，這寺廟的風格也可以在柬埔寨的吳哥窟看到。
途中也經過稻田、薑田及咖啡種植園。Anoop當然也給我們講解途中見到的植物。
在他的其中一間村屋，我們享用了簡單的午餐，就是香蕉葉包飯。這天幾乎什麼也沒有做，只是看風景及聽Anoop說他的故事。
今天也嚐了人生的第一次，包括飲用印度山邊的溪水及被水蛭吸血。
大自然如此美好，保育是必要的。在城市中真的要減少消耗能源，例如少開冷氣。
The natural environment created by God is really breath taking.
I and the French couple go to Anoop’s village by one of his Land Rovers. We pass by his ancestral home and a vacant temple. The temple architectural style can now be seen in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.
We also pass by paddy fields, ginger fields and coffee plantation. Anoop of course has explained to us the plantation we see.
We enjoy simple lunch – rice wrapped with banana leaf – in one of Anoop’s village home. We have done almost nothing today, except looking at the scenery and listening to Anoop’s stories.
I have also experienced something new to my life today, including drinking stream water and giving out my blood to leeches.
The natural environment is always impressive that need to be preserved. We should all reduce energy consumption in the city, such as using less air-conditioning.
南印度16天﹝十一﹞/馬蒂科里 16 days in South India (11)/ Madikeri
日期：2007年10月01日/ 地點：卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:01 Oct, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka
今天下大雨，只在市內逛。
我挺喜歡這個地方，可能會多留兩天，大多取消班加羅爾的行程。
由於昨天是馬蒂科里的投票日，今天在街上看見巡遊人士，手持標語叫口號，而警察則在旁維持秩序。
旅館附近有一間寺廟，我看見人們把椰子拋在地上，然後拿地上的椰子吃。而在寺廟下面則是監獄，可看見警察與被扣上手扣的人進出。
再行十多分鐘，又進入了寧靜地方。這裡有一間清真寺，附近應該住了不少穆斯林，又常看到一些包了頭巾的婦女。
再向前行，到了Royal Tomb古蹟。這是皇帝家族墓穴。
這小城真的很令人舒服。
Heavy rain, and I only walk around the town.
I like this city and maybe I should stay here for two more days, canceling the trip to Bangalore.
Election in Madikeri was held yesterday. I see people marching on the street with banners and shouting slogans. Police are keeping the order in control.
There is a temple close to Dawn guesthouse. People throw the coconuts on the floor and eat them. And there is a prison next to the temple, and I can see police and handcuffed criminals going in and out.
I have entered a quiet place after walking for 10 minutes. There is a mosque, and I believe that a lot of Muslims are living around. I have always seen women covering their heads.
I have also reached the Royal Tomb.
This small city is really quiet and relaxing.
今天下大雨，只在市內逛。
我挺喜歡這個地方，可能會多留兩天，大多取消班加羅爾的行程。
由於昨天是馬蒂科里的投票日，今天在街上看見巡遊人士，手持標語叫口號，而警察則在旁維持秩序。
旅館附近有一間寺廟，我看見人們把椰子拋在地上，然後拿地上的椰子吃。而在寺廟下面則是監獄，可看見警察與被扣上手扣的人進出。
再行十多分鐘，又進入了寧靜地方。這裡有一間清真寺，附近應該住了不少穆斯林，又常看到一些包了頭巾的婦女。
再向前行，到了Royal Tomb古蹟。這是皇帝家族墓穴。
這小城真的很令人舒服。
Heavy rain, and I only walk around the town.
I like this city and maybe I should stay here for two more days, canceling the trip to Bangalore.
Election in Madikeri was held yesterday. I see people marching on the street with banners and shouting slogans. Police are keeping the order in control.
There is a temple close to Dawn guesthouse. People throw the coconuts on the floor and eat them. And there is a prison next to the temple, and I can see police and handcuffed criminals going in and out.
I have entered a quiet place after walking for 10 minutes. There is a mosque, and I believe that a lot of Muslims are living around. I have always seen women covering their heads.
I have also reached the Royal Tomb.
This small city is really quiet and relaxing.
南印度16天﹝十﹞/馬蒂科里 16 days in South India (10)/ Madikeri
日期：2007年09月30日/ 地點：卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:30 Sep, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka
昨晚坐11:45分的火車，今早8:30先到芒格洛爾，隨即到巴士站坐4小時車到馬蒂科里。
巴士沿途景色怡人，都是一棵棵綠色大樹，空氣清新，令人輕鬆。
馬蒂科里是果達古﹝古爾格﹞區的一部份，這裡的原住民叫果達古人。這裡是行山的好地方，如季節合適，可以見到很多大象，可惜我早了一點到這地方。而據旅遊書介紹說，這些原住民嫁女不用付嫁妝。我沒有證實這消息，但如果這是正確的話，可真是一個好的情況，因為印度經常發生婦女付不起嫁妝而給夫家燒死的事件，在農村情況特別多。
到步後，跟隨寂寞星球的介紹找到Dawn旅館，旅館老闆Anoop Chinnappa是一個環保戰士，詳情可看這裡。
傍晚與法國夫婦Patrice及Fanny和Anoop Chinnappa步行45分鐘上山看日落，Anoop的兩只狗Pinko及Snowie也跟在一起。這裡的風景真的很好，山上白雲很多，很舒服，可以想像在不同的時間，這裡的景色會有所不同。
Anoop在6年前，在街上看到Pinko被人遺棄，把牠拿回家收養。牠去年生了四頭小狗，但其中兩頭被人偷去，另外一頭被車碾死，只留下Snowie。牠現在又懷孕了。
步行後，跟法藉夫婦一起找印度人Vinod晚餐。Vinod是一間當地環境教育中心的負責人，而他同時也是一個商人，也是一些滿腦子有不同計劃的人，例如他想把生意盈利的百分之5抽起，用作在互聯網推動環保發展。
很高興在這地方看到熱心的人。
I was on board the train at 11:45pm last night, and arrived Mangalore at 8:30 this morning before taking a 4-hour bus to Madikeri.
The scenery along the bus route is nice. Trees are scattered along and the air is fresh. These just make me relaxed.
Madikeri (Mercara) is part of the Kodagu (Coorg) region, and its native is called Kodavas. This is a place for hiking, and you can see a lot of elephants if you are traveling in the right time. But it seems that I have arrived earlier.
Travel guidebook says the wedding of the native people here rarely involves dowry. I have not verified the information, but it would be a good news if it is true. Many women in India are burnt to death by their husband families for failing to pay the dowry, which is more common in remote villages.
I follow the recommendation of Lonely Plant to reach Dawn guesthouse. The owner of the guesthouse is Anoop Chinnappa, who is an ecowarrior. Details about him can click here.
Anoop took me and a French couple, Patrice and Fanny, for a 45-minute short walk to the hill to see the sunset. Anoop’s two dogs, Pinko and Snowie, also accompany us. The scenery is impressive. Blue sky and the clouds are clear, and I can imagine that the scenery keeps changing in different times.
Anoop took stray dog Pinko home when she was abandoned six years ago. She gave birth to four puppies last year. But two of the small dogs were stolen, and one killed after being trapped beneath a car. Only Snowie can survive. Pinko is pregnant again.
After the walk, I go to dinner with the French couple and another Indian Vinod. Vinod is the person-in-charge of an environmental education centre in the city, and himself is also a businessmen. He is also the person with many ideas in his mind. For example, he wishes to donate five percent of his business income for promoting environmental awareness with the internet.
It is glad to see enthusiastic people.
昨晚坐11:45分的火車，今早8:30先到芒格洛爾，隨即到巴士站坐4小時車到馬蒂科里。
巴士沿途景色怡人，都是一棵棵綠色大樹，空氣清新，令人輕鬆。
馬蒂科里是果達古﹝古爾格﹞區的一部份，這裡的原住民叫果達古人。這裡是行山的好地方，如季節合適，可以見到很多大象，可惜我早了一點到這地方。而據旅遊書介紹說，這些原住民嫁女不用付嫁妝。我沒有證實這消息，但如果這是正確的話，可真是一個好的情況，因為印度經常發生婦女付不起嫁妝而給夫家燒死的事件，在農村情況特別多。
到步後，跟隨寂寞星球的介紹找到Dawn旅館，旅館老闆Anoop Chinnappa是一個環保戰士，詳情可看這裡。
傍晚與法國夫婦Patrice及Fanny和Anoop Chinnappa步行45分鐘上山看日落，Anoop的兩只狗Pinko及Snowie也跟在一起。這裡的風景真的很好，山上白雲很多，很舒服，可以想像在不同的時間，這裡的景色會有所不同。
Anoop在6年前，在街上看到Pinko被人遺棄，把牠拿回家收養。牠去年生了四頭小狗，但其中兩頭被人偷去，另外一頭被車碾死，只留下Snowie。牠現在又懷孕了。
步行後，跟法藉夫婦一起找印度人Vinod晚餐。Vinod是一間當地環境教育中心的負責人，而他同時也是一個商人，也是一些滿腦子有不同計劃的人，例如他想把生意盈利的百分之5抽起，用作在互聯網推動環保發展。
很高興在這地方看到熱心的人。
I was on board the train at 11:45pm last night, and arrived Mangalore at 8:30 this morning before taking a 4-hour bus to Madikeri.
The scenery along the bus route is nice. Trees are scattered along and the air is fresh. These just make me relaxed.
Madikeri (Mercara) is part of the Kodagu (Coorg) region, and its native is called Kodavas. This is a place for hiking, and you can see a lot of elephants if you are traveling in the right time. But it seems that I have arrived earlier.
Travel guidebook says the wedding of the native people here rarely involves dowry. I have not verified the information, but it would be a good news if it is true. Many women in India are burnt to death by their husband families for failing to pay the dowry, which is more common in remote villages.
I follow the recommendation of Lonely Plant to reach Dawn guesthouse. The owner of the guesthouse is Anoop Chinnappa, who is an ecowarrior. Details about him can click here.
Anoop took me and a French couple, Patrice and Fanny, for a 45-minute short walk to the hill to see the sunset. Anoop’s two dogs, Pinko and Snowie, also accompany us. The scenery is impressive. Blue sky and the clouds are clear, and I can imagine that the scenery keeps changing in different times.
Anoop took stray dog Pinko home when she was abandoned six years ago. She gave birth to four puppies last year. But two of the small dogs were stolen, and one killed after being trapped beneath a car. Only Snowie can survive. Pinko is pregnant again.
After the walk, I go to dinner with the French couple and another Indian Vinod. Vinod is the person-in-charge of an environmental education centre in the city, and himself is also a businessmen. He is also the person with many ideas in his mind. For example, he wishes to donate five percent of his business income for promoting environmental awareness with the internet.
It is glad to see enthusiastic people.
南印度16天﹝九﹞/Cherai Beach 16 days in South India (9)/ Cherai Beach
日期：2007年09月29日/ 地點：喀拉拉邦科欽Date:29 Sep, 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala
我沒有去過泰國及哥亞，但我相信Cherai Beach可能比泰國及哥亞的海灘遜色。但在Cochin來說，這也是一個很好的地方，很多老百姓在談情。
到Cherai Beach，要先由Fort Cochin坐船到Vypeen Island，再坐45分鐘巴士。
而由Fort Cochin到Vypeen Island的船又印證了印度是一個把什麼東西都放在一起的多元化國家。這艘船不只載人，也載車。無論坐滿學童的校巴、有客人的三輪車、單車、電單車及私家車也可上船，甚至是雪糕車也是這樣過海做生意。
回旅館後，享受了一餐住家晚飯。之後便去火車站，坐火車去卡納塔克邦的芒格洛爾。
I have never been to Thailand and Goa, but I believe that Cherai beach is not as attractive as those in Thailand and Goa. But it is still a beautiful place in Cochin, attracting many couples.
I need to take a jetty to Vypeen Island from Fort Cochin before taking a 45-minutes bus to the beach. The jetty to and from Vypeen Island is another example showing India is a diversified country that put different things together. The boat does not only carry passengers, but also cars. Fully seated school buses, rickshaws with passengers, bicycle, motorcycle and private car can also on board the jetty, and even the ice-cream cars are crossing the harbour by it.
I have enjoyed a homemade dinner at the Green Woods Bethlehem guesthouse before going to the train station for Mangalore in Karnataka.
我沒有去過泰國及哥亞，但我相信Cherai Beach可能比泰國及哥亞的海灘遜色。但在Cochin來說，這也是一個很好的地方，很多老百姓在談情。
到Cherai Beach，要先由Fort Cochin坐船到Vypeen Island，再坐45分鐘巴士。
而由Fort Cochin到Vypeen Island的船又印證了印度是一個把什麼東西都放在一起的多元化國家。這艘船不只載人，也載車。無論坐滿學童的校巴、有客人的三輪車、單車、電單車及私家車也可上船，甚至是雪糕車也是這樣過海做生意。
回旅館後，享受了一餐住家晚飯。之後便去火車站，坐火車去卡納塔克邦的芒格洛爾。
I have never been to Thailand and Goa, but I believe that Cherai beach is not as attractive as those in Thailand and Goa. But it is still a beautiful place in Cochin, attracting many couples.
I need to take a jetty to Vypeen Island from Fort Cochin before taking a 45-minutes bus to the beach. The jetty to and from Vypeen Island is another example showing India is a diversified country that put different things together. The boat does not only carry passengers, but also cars. Fully seated school buses, rickshaws with passengers, bicycle, motorcycle and private car can also on board the jetty, and even the ice-cream cars are crossing the harbour by it.
I have enjoyed a homemade dinner at the Green Woods Bethlehem guesthouse before going to the train station for Mangalore in Karnataka.
南印度16天﹝八﹞/討論政治 16 days in South India (8)/ Political discussion
日期：2007年09月28日/ 地點：喀拉拉邦科欽Date:28 Sep, 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala
出發前不太想過在印度會談及政治。
在斯里蘭卡，關員檢查我的護照後，問我香港與中國有什麼關係。我說香港是中國的一個城市。他再問我香港是否只是一個中國城市及香港是否與中國分開等問題，我答香港是屬於中國的。
以色列的Noam也問了很多問題，例如香港是否奉行社會主義以及會否容許私人企業的存在等。
印度喀拉拉邦是社會主義的省份，在1957年成立全球首個民選的社會主義政府。
在這裡很容易看到社會主義的象徵。連咖啡店的餐牌也印有哲古華拉的樣貌。
而邦政府大力投資教育及醫療服務，以致識字率達百分之91。而財富分佈也較平均，這幾天在街上很少看到乞丐。這裡的市政府叫Corporation of Cochin。
曾在亞洲週刊讀到一篇有關喀拉拉邦解決貧窮的報導：
「印度手捲煙行業約600萬全職和兼職工人，生財工具只要一把剪刀、一個竹盆、靈巧的手、專注的精神，一天可卷600至2000支煙，入息微薄，卷1000支煙的收入相當於3港元。這是低賤的行業，辛勞的活。但是，一些捲煙工人幾十年來有一個習慣：工人分成30至40人一組，每組由一人輪流專責朗讀報紙和書，讓他們一邊工作，一邊聽讀報念書，一邊討論。每天晚上，各人把一些捲煙交給讀報工人，讓他有同等收入。」
在市內真的看見老百姓在讀書室讀報。
不知是否在這種環境下成長會令提高人民的政治意識。一位餐廳侍應突然問我是否對政治有興趣。問我香港是否實行社會主義，又問我有否加入共產黨。
這位侍應說他明白香港與中國的關係，就像印度各邦的情況一樣，每個邦有自己的邦政府，而這些邦政府要向中央政府負責。
侍應說這城市正上演一套電影，內容是一個喀拉拉人，因為迷戀中國共產主義，而愛上一個由杜拜到印度的中國女子。
其實，也有其他老百姓得悉我是香港人後，也說出中國是共產主義的話。
雖然邦政府很進取，但喀拉拉邦也面對不少問題。由於當地缺乏工業發展，以致人民收入不多。很多受過教育的年青人感到失望而自殺或到中東國家工作，以獲得外匯養家。南華早報早前刊登了一篇報導諷刺這個社會主義邦的人民要賺取資本主義的金錢。
I have never expected that I will be involved in political discussion before departing Hong Kong.
In Sri Lanka, the immigration officer asked me on the relationship between Hong Kong and China. I told him that Hong Kong is a Chinese city. He went on asking me if Hong Kong was only a Chinese city and if Hong Kong was separated from China. I replied that Hong Kong is part of China.
Israeli Noam had also asked a lot of such questions, for example, whether Hong Kong was a socialist community and whether private corporations were accepted.
Kerala is a socialist state of India, having the world’s first elected socialist government in 1957. The symbols of socialism are always seen in the city, and even the menu of a café has the photos of Che Guevara printed.
The state government heavily invests in education and health services, leading to the literacy rate of 91 percent and the more even distribution of wealth. I have rarely seen beggars in Cochin, which the municipal government is called Corporation of Cochin.
I have read a report in Yazhouzhoukan concerning how Kerala government tackles poverty.
The article says ``The cigarette rolling industry employs 6 million full-time and part-time workers in India. The workers only need a scissor, bamboo boat, a pair flexible hands and concentration to earn money. Each worker can roll between 600 and 2000 cigarettes each day. Their income is minimal as rolling 1,000 cigarettes will only give them HK$3. This is a low-class job. However, the workers have a decades long habit. They are grouped into between 30 and 40 workers, and there is a specialized person in each group responsible for reading newspaper and books to the workers. Therefore, the workers can actually read and discuss the papers while doing their job. The workers will give some cigarettes to the newspaper readers as salary.’’
I have seen ordinary citizens reading newspapers in reading room.
I wonder whether the people will be more politically alerted under such environment. A restaurant staff has suddenly asked me whether I am interested in politics, whether Hong Kong is a socialist community and whether I have joined the Communist Party.
The staff says he understands the relationship between Hong Kong and China, and says it is like the relationship between different states of India. Each state of India has its own government, but they need to report to the country central government.
He also says a movie is being shown in the city, which is about a Keralite man falling in love with a Chinese woman from Dubai as he is obsessed with Chinese communism.
Indeed, many Indians say they know China is a communist country when they know that I am from Hong Kong.
Although Kerala government is progressive, the state faces many problems. People are not earning high income because of the lack of industrial development. A lot of educated youngsters feel disappointed, committing suicide and going to Middle East countries for earning foreign currencies to support their families. The South China Morning Post has published an article satirizing the residents of the socialist state need to earn capitalist money.
出發前不太想過在印度會談及政治。
在斯里蘭卡，關員檢查我的護照後，問我香港與中國有什麼關係。我說香港是中國的一個城市。他再問我香港是否只是一個中國城市及香港是否與中國分開等問題，我答香港是屬於中國的。
以色列的Noam也問了很多問題，例如香港是否奉行社會主義以及會否容許私人企業的存在等。
印度喀拉拉邦是社會主義的省份，在1957年成立全球首個民選的社會主義政府。
在這裡很容易看到社會主義的象徵。連咖啡店的餐牌也印有哲古華拉的樣貌。
而邦政府大力投資教育及醫療服務，以致識字率達百分之91。而財富分佈也較平均，這幾天在街上很少看到乞丐。這裡的市政府叫Corporation of Cochin。
曾在亞洲週刊讀到一篇有關喀拉拉邦解決貧窮的報導：
「印度手捲煙行業約600萬全職和兼職工人，生財工具只要一把剪刀、一個竹盆、靈巧的手、專注的精神，一天可卷600至2000支煙，入息微薄，卷1000支煙的收入相當於3港元。這是低賤的行業，辛勞的活。但是，一些捲煙工人幾十年來有一個習慣：工人分成30至40人一組，每組由一人輪流專責朗讀報紙和書，讓他們一邊工作，一邊聽讀報念書，一邊討論。每天晚上，各人把一些捲煙交給讀報工人，讓他有同等收入。」
在市內真的看見老百姓在讀書室讀報。
不知是否在這種環境下成長會令提高人民的政治意識。一位餐廳侍應突然問我是否對政治有興趣。問我香港是否實行社會主義，又問我有否加入共產黨。
這位侍應說他明白香港與中國的關係，就像印度各邦的情況一樣，每個邦有自己的邦政府，而這些邦政府要向中央政府負責。
侍應說這城市正上演一套電影，內容是一個喀拉拉人，因為迷戀中國共產主義，而愛上一個由杜拜到印度的中國女子。
其實，也有其他老百姓得悉我是香港人後，也說出中國是共產主義的話。
雖然邦政府很進取，但喀拉拉邦也面對不少問題。由於當地缺乏工業發展，以致人民收入不多。很多受過教育的年青人感到失望而自殺或到中東國家工作，以獲得外匯養家。南華早報早前刊登了一篇報導諷刺這個社會主義邦的人民要賺取資本主義的金錢。
I have never expected that I will be involved in political discussion before departing Hong Kong.
In Sri Lanka, the immigration officer asked me on the relationship between Hong Kong and China. I told him that Hong Kong is a Chinese city. He went on asking me if Hong Kong was only a Chinese city and if Hong Kong was separated from China. I replied that Hong Kong is part of China.
Israeli Noam had also asked a lot of such questions, for example, whether Hong Kong was a socialist community and whether private corporations were accepted.
Kerala is a socialist state of India, having the world’s first elected socialist government in 1957. The symbols of socialism are always seen in the city, and even the menu of a café has the photos of Che Guevara printed.
The state government heavily invests in education and health services, leading to the literacy rate of 91 percent and the more even distribution of wealth. I have rarely seen beggars in Cochin, which the municipal government is called Corporation of Cochin.
I have read a report in Yazhouzhoukan concerning how Kerala government tackles poverty.
The article says ``The cigarette rolling industry employs 6 million full-time and part-time workers in India. The workers only need a scissor, bamboo boat, a pair flexible hands and concentration to earn money. Each worker can roll between 600 and 2000 cigarettes each day. Their income is minimal as rolling 1,000 cigarettes will only give them HK$3. This is a low-class job. However, the workers have a decades long habit. They are grouped into between 30 and 40 workers, and there is a specialized person in each group responsible for reading newspaper and books to the workers. Therefore, the workers can actually read and discuss the papers while doing their job. The workers will give some cigarettes to the newspaper readers as salary.’’
I have seen ordinary citizens reading newspapers in reading room.
I wonder whether the people will be more politically alerted under such environment. A restaurant staff has suddenly asked me whether I am interested in politics, whether Hong Kong is a socialist community and whether I have joined the Communist Party.
The staff says he understands the relationship between Hong Kong and China, and says it is like the relationship between different states of India. Each state of India has its own government, but they need to report to the country central government.
He also says a movie is being shown in the city, which is about a Keralite man falling in love with a Chinese woman from Dubai as he is obsessed with Chinese communism.
Indeed, many Indians say they know China is a communist country when they know that I am from Hong Kong.
Although Kerala government is progressive, the state faces many problems. People are not earning high income because of the lack of industrial development. A lot of educated youngsters feel disappointed, committing suicide and going to Middle East countries for earning foreign currencies to support their families. The South China Morning Post has published an article satirizing the residents of the socialist state need to earn capitalist money.
南印度16天﹝七﹞/中國漁網 16 days in South India (7)/ Chinese fishing net
日期：2007年09月27日/ 地點：喀拉拉邦科欽Date:27 Sep, 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala
科欽的漁產非常著名，常常見到漁夫販賣漁獲。
而漁夫都是在海岸以中國漁網捕魚。
這種在中國也再見不到的漁網，據說是在鄭和下西洋時傳入印度。簡單來說，就是利用杠杆原理，把重物綁在一端，將漁網一時放入水中，一時拉起。有漁獲時，漁夫會拉起繩索，之後再把漁網放回水中。而隨其他捕魚方法的發明，這種漁網已逐漸被取代。
我平時不多吃魚，但慨然來到這地方，無論如何也要品嚐一下海鮮。昨晚與以色列的Noam吃了烤魚，很美味，而魚亦沒有腥味。今天吃了烤烏賊，也很好吃。
在用餐的地方，有一種名叫specialty的飲品，詢問之下發現這是啤酒。因為當地政府規定賣啤酒要交牌費，一些食店為避過政府的耳目，把啤酒放在茶壺當茶出售。
Fish in Cochin is very famous, and fishermen selling their items are always seen in the city.
The fishermen get what they want with the use of Chinese fishing nets.
Such net, which is rarely seen in China, is said to be imported to India by Zheng He.
Applying the lever theory, the fishermen connected heavy stones to one side of the net. They will put the net under the water or pull it up if they have caught fish. The net is being replaced by other fishery methods.
I don’t like eating fish. But I think I need to try in this place. Yesterday night, I ate grilled fish with Israeli Noam. The fish was delicious and without the fishy smell. Tonight, I try the roast squid, which is also very good.
A drink named ``specialty’’ is available in the restaurant. It is actually beer. Restaurant staff says that they need to pay license fees for selling beer. To avoid paying the fees, they package beer as a special tea.
科欽的漁產非常著名，常常見到漁夫販賣漁獲。
而漁夫都是在海岸以中國漁網捕魚。
這種在中國也再見不到的漁網，據說是在鄭和下西洋時傳入印度。簡單來說，就是利用杠杆原理，把重物綁在一端，將漁網一時放入水中，一時拉起。有漁獲時，漁夫會拉起繩索，之後再把漁網放回水中。而隨其他捕魚方法的發明，這種漁網已逐漸被取代。
我平時不多吃魚，但慨然來到這地方，無論如何也要品嚐一下海鮮。昨晚與以色列的Noam吃了烤魚，很美味，而魚亦沒有腥味。今天吃了烤烏賊，也很好吃。
在用餐的地方，有一種名叫specialty的飲品，詢問之下發現這是啤酒。因為當地政府規定賣啤酒要交牌費，一些食店為避過政府的耳目，把啤酒放在茶壺當茶出售。
Fish in Cochin is very famous, and fishermen selling their items are always seen in the city.
The fishermen get what they want with the use of Chinese fishing nets.
Such net, which is rarely seen in China, is said to be imported to India by Zheng He.
Applying the lever theory, the fishermen connected heavy stones to one side of the net. They will put the net under the water or pull it up if they have caught fish. The net is being replaced by other fishery methods.
I don’t like eating fish. But I think I need to try in this place. Yesterday night, I ate grilled fish with Israeli Noam. The fish was delicious and without the fishy smell. Tonight, I try the roast squid, which is also very good.
A drink named ``specialty’’ is available in the restaurant. It is actually beer. Restaurant staff says that they need to pay license fees for selling beer. To avoid paying the fees, they package beer as a special tea.
南印度16天﹝六﹞/卡塔卡利舞 16 days in South India (6)/ Kathakali Dance
船河外，今天也是文化日，欣賞了卡塔卡利舞的演出。
綜合各方介紹，卡塔卡利舞已流傳超過300年，是目前印度古典舞蹈中唯一還保持用梵文演唱的劇種，但比起古代梵劇，卡塔卡利已有不少改進和發展。卡塔卡利的題材多選自印度兩部重要史詩《羅摩衍那》和《摩訶婆羅多》。主題大都是描寫神或英雄人物如何戰勝邪惡的故事。按這兩部史詩編創過的保留劇目有大約500部，而廣爲流傳的就有50餘部，可以說卡塔卡利如同一面歷史的鏡子，從中可以領略到印度古代衆多的風情。
卡塔卡利的所有角色，都由男士擔任，女角也由年輕漂亮的男子扮演。一名卡塔卡利舞蹈演員從７歲至12歲開始，要經過大約十二年的嚴格訓練，是印度古典舞中受訓時間最長的舞種。演員除了要練舞功外，還要對面部的眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等部位進行訓練，讓它們都能運動自如。在印度古典舞中，卡塔卡利對眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等部位的應用之多，難度之大都遠遠超過印度其他各派。
傳統卡塔卡利舞是由晚上9時演至翌日清晨。但現在可以欣賞1小時的濃縮版。表演一般由晚上六時至七時開始。而值得注意的是，演員在表演前約兩小時開始化妝，觀眾可以看見表演者把不同顏料塗在面上，這是不可錯過的。
卡塔卡利的重要特點是它強烈的戲劇性。表演者不說話，卻運用24個基本手勢和眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等面部動作，構成一整套的示意動作，它們是劇情和人物感情交流的重要手段。而在每段戲劇表演之間通常要加上一段激烈的純舞蹈：大蹲襠步、單腿控制、急速旋轉以及腳掌、腳側完成的各種腳點和跳躍動作，構成了卡塔卡利男性舞蹈健壯英武的風格。富有特色戲劇效果的各種臉譜，是卡塔卡利的又一重要特徵，不同角色有不同的臉譜，但只以人物類別劃分，如英雄人物爲綠色，反派人物要加紅色，並在鼻尖和額頭加白色飾物：正面女角爲肉色，獵人爲黑色等。
伴奏樂隊通常是四人――兩位鼓手和兩位吟頌者。
舞蹈表演後，又遇上以色列的Noam，大家一起吃美味的烤魚，之後去欣賞小型傳統音樂會。鼓手的表現很精彩。
Today is a cultural day. I have enjoyed the Kathakali Dance.
According to www.keralatourism.org, Kerala owes its transnational fame to this nearly 300 years old classical dance form which combines facets of ballet, opera, masque and the pantomime. It is said to have evolved from other performing arts like Kootiyattam, Krishnanattam and Kalarippayattu. Kathakali explicates ideas and stories from the Indian epics and Puranas.
Presented in the temple precincts after dusk falls Kathakali is heralded by the Kelikottu or the beating of drums in accompaniment of the Chengila (gong). The riches of a happy blending of colour, expressions, music, drama and dance is unparallelled in any other art form.
Costume is elaborate with the face painted up. Great importance is laid on the Vesham or make-up which are of five types - Pacha, Kathi, Thadi, Kari and Minukku.
The pomp and magnificence of Kathakali is partly due to its decor part of which is the kireetam or huge headgear and the kanchukam the over sized jackets, and a long skirt worn over a thick padding of cushions. The identity of the actor is completely mutilated to create a super human being of larger-than-life proportion.
The orchestra is formed of two varieties of drums - the maddalam and chenda; the chengila which is a bell metal gong and the ilathalam or cymbals.
Students of Kathakali have to undergo rigorous training replete with oil massages and separate exercises for eyes, lips, cheeks, mouth and neck. Abhinaya or expression is of prime importance as is nritya or dance and geetham or singing.
Together with highly evocative facial expressions, the mudras and the music both vocal and instrumental, Kathakali unfolds stories from a bygone era in a lofty style reminiscent of the Greek plays. Kerala Kalamandalam , is the prominent institution imparting Kathakali training in the traditional way.
More information can be found at wikipedia.
I have met Noam from Israel after the dance performance. We ate delicious grill fish before going to a traditional Indian music concert. The drum performance is impressive.
綜合各方介紹，卡塔卡利舞已流傳超過300年，是目前印度古典舞蹈中唯一還保持用梵文演唱的劇種，但比起古代梵劇，卡塔卡利已有不少改進和發展。卡塔卡利的題材多選自印度兩部重要史詩《羅摩衍那》和《摩訶婆羅多》。主題大都是描寫神或英雄人物如何戰勝邪惡的故事。按這兩部史詩編創過的保留劇目有大約500部，而廣爲流傳的就有50餘部，可以說卡塔卡利如同一面歷史的鏡子，從中可以領略到印度古代衆多的風情。
卡塔卡利的所有角色，都由男士擔任，女角也由年輕漂亮的男子扮演。一名卡塔卡利舞蹈演員從７歲至12歲開始，要經過大約十二年的嚴格訓練，是印度古典舞中受訓時間最長的舞種。演員除了要練舞功外，還要對面部的眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等部位進行訓練，讓它們都能運動自如。在印度古典舞中，卡塔卡利對眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等部位的應用之多，難度之大都遠遠超過印度其他各派。
傳統卡塔卡利舞是由晚上9時演至翌日清晨。但現在可以欣賞1小時的濃縮版。表演一般由晚上六時至七時開始。而值得注意的是，演員在表演前約兩小時開始化妝，觀眾可以看見表演者把不同顏料塗在面上，這是不可錯過的。
卡塔卡利的重要特點是它強烈的戲劇性。表演者不說話，卻運用24個基本手勢和眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等面部動作，構成一整套的示意動作，它們是劇情和人物感情交流的重要手段。而在每段戲劇表演之間通常要加上一段激烈的純舞蹈：大蹲襠步、單腿控制、急速旋轉以及腳掌、腳側完成的各種腳點和跳躍動作，構成了卡塔卡利男性舞蹈健壯英武的風格。富有特色戲劇效果的各種臉譜，是卡塔卡利的又一重要特徵，不同角色有不同的臉譜，但只以人物類別劃分，如英雄人物爲綠色，反派人物要加紅色，並在鼻尖和額頭加白色飾物：正面女角爲肉色，獵人爲黑色等。
伴奏樂隊通常是四人――兩位鼓手和兩位吟頌者。
舞蹈表演後，又遇上以色列的Noam，大家一起吃美味的烤魚，之後去欣賞小型傳統音樂會。鼓手的表現很精彩。
Today is a cultural day. I have enjoyed the Kathakali Dance.
According to www.keralatourism.org, Kerala owes its transnational fame to this nearly 300 years old classical dance form which combines facets of ballet, opera, masque and the pantomime. It is said to have evolved from other performing arts like Kootiyattam, Krishnanattam and Kalarippayattu. Kathakali explicates ideas and stories from the Indian epics and Puranas.
Presented in the temple precincts after dusk falls Kathakali is heralded by the Kelikottu or the beating of drums in accompaniment of the Chengila (gong). The riches of a happy blending of colour, expressions, music, drama and dance is unparallelled in any other art form.
Costume is elaborate with the face painted up. Great importance is laid on the Vesham or make-up which are of five types - Pacha, Kathi, Thadi, Kari and Minukku.
The pomp and magnificence of Kathakali is partly due to its decor part of which is the kireetam or huge headgear and the kanchukam the over sized jackets, and a long skirt worn over a thick padding of cushions. The identity of the actor is completely mutilated to create a super human being of larger-than-life proportion.
The orchestra is formed of two varieties of drums - the maddalam and chenda; the chengila which is a bell metal gong and the ilathalam or cymbals.
Students of Kathakali have to undergo rigorous training replete with oil massages and separate exercises for eyes, lips, cheeks, mouth and neck. Abhinaya or expression is of prime importance as is nritya or dance and geetham or singing.
Together with highly evocative facial expressions, the mudras and the music both vocal and instrumental, Kathakali unfolds stories from a bygone era in a lofty style reminiscent of the Greek plays. Kerala Kalamandalam , is the prominent institution imparting Kathakali training in the traditional way.
More information can be found at wikipedia.
I have met Noam from Israel after the dance performance. We ate delicious grill fish before going to a traditional Indian music concert. The drum performance is impressive.
Friday, October 12, 2007
南印度16天﹝五﹞/回流水船河 16 days in South India (5)/ Backwater trip
日期：2007年09月26日/ 地點：喀拉拉邦科欽 Date: 26, Sep 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala
今天參加了六小時的回流水船河，沿途風景優美，挺有意思。
根據牛津字典，「回流水」的意思是「與水流沒聯繫的水，即死水。又或是一個沒有發展的地方。」
但喀拉拉邦的死水是令人驚訝與充滿活力。船隻進入窄的河道，而這些河道又被椰子樹包圍。我又看見很多印度人在沿岸工作。船隻在一村鄉村停下，讓大家享用傳統喀拉拉邦午餐及看看婦女如何以椰子做繩。
除了我和以色列人Noam Chayut外，船上所有遊客都是印度人。他們來自泰米爾納德邦及孟買。而船夫則是喀拉拉人。
來自不同地方的印度人以英語溝通。為什麼呢？因為印度有多種官方語言，在北方較盛行的印地語不是每個人也懂。來自孟買的人聽不懂泰米爾納德語及印地語。
就這樣，船上約20人，可以說的語言有7種，包括泰米爾納德語、Malayalam﹝喀拉拉邦的語言﹞、英語、希伯來語、粵語及普通話。
船夫賺取的名副其實是血汗錢。這艘船不是機動船，船夫首先要把竹杆插入水底下的泥土，然後借力推動船隻，再步行數步把竹杆提起。他要重複這動作數小時，艱辛程度可想而知。船夫說他每天賺取Rs100﹝港幣20元﹞。
Noam嘗試划船幾分鐘，之後說疲累。
船上的印度人常常在唱他們的民歌。當Noam划船時，他們唱的民歌是叫Noam動作快點。
I joined a six-hour backwater trip. It is a meaningful trip as the scenery is breath taking. Oxford dictionary says backwater means ``a part of river not reached by the current, where the water is stagnant, and a place or state in which no development is taking place.’’
But the ``stagnant’’ water in Kerala is amazing and lively. The boat enters the narrow canals which are surrounded by coconut trees, and where you can see Indians working. The boat has stopped in a traditional village, where we enjoyed simple Keralite lunch and saw traditional women making rope with coconut.
All of the other passengers – except me and Israeli Noam Chayut – are Indians. These Indians come from Mumbai and Tami Nadu, and the boatman is Keralite.
Different groups of Indians are communicating with each others in English. Why is that? It is because India has many official languages, and not many Indians can speak Hindi, which is common in the North. The passengers from Mumbai cannot understand Tamili.
I believe more than seven languages can be spoken in the boat of 20 passengers, which include Tamili, Malayalam (Keralite language), English, Hebrews, Cantonese and Putonghua.
We can see a lot of lotus along the trip. The Indians just pick them up and make a necklace.
Noam, who has knowledge of plantation, says ``I cannot believe it’’ when seeing the Indians picking up the flowers, fearing that it will lead to ecological disaster.
What the boatman earns is really ``blood and sweat money’’. We are not traveling in a motor boat. The boatman needs to insert the bamboo stick into the mud under the water, and then moves the boat forward before walking a few steps to pick up the stick. He needs to keep the same action for four hours! He earns Rs 100 (HK$20) each day.
Noam says he is exhausted after paddling the boat for a few minutes.
The Tamili on the boat keeps singing their province folk. When Noam is paddling the boat, they keep saying a folk song encouraging him to move faster.
今天參加了六小時的回流水船河，沿途風景優美，挺有意思。
根據牛津字典，「回流水」的意思是「與水流沒聯繫的水，即死水。又或是一個沒有發展的地方。」
但喀拉拉邦的死水是令人驚訝與充滿活力。船隻進入窄的河道，而這些河道又被椰子樹包圍。我又看見很多印度人在沿岸工作。船隻在一村鄉村停下，讓大家享用傳統喀拉拉邦午餐及看看婦女如何以椰子做繩。
除了我和以色列人Noam Chayut外，船上所有遊客都是印度人。他們來自泰米爾納德邦及孟買。而船夫則是喀拉拉人。
來自不同地方的印度人以英語溝通。為什麼呢？因為印度有多種官方語言，在北方較盛行的印地語不是每個人也懂。來自孟買的人聽不懂泰米爾納德語及印地語。
就這樣，船上約20人，可以說的語言有7種，包括泰米爾納德語、Malayalam﹝喀拉拉邦的語言﹞、英語、希伯來語、粵語及普通話。
船夫賺取的名副其實是血汗錢。這艘船不是機動船，船夫首先要把竹杆插入水底下的泥土，然後借力推動船隻，再步行數步把竹杆提起。他要重複這動作數小時，艱辛程度可想而知。船夫說他每天賺取Rs100﹝港幣20元﹞。
Noam嘗試划船幾分鐘，之後說疲累。
船上的印度人常常在唱他們的民歌。當Noam划船時，他們唱的民歌是叫Noam動作快點。
I joined a six-hour backwater trip. It is a meaningful trip as the scenery is breath taking. Oxford dictionary says backwater means ``a part of river not reached by the current, where the water is stagnant, and a place or state in which no development is taking place.’’
But the ``stagnant’’ water in Kerala is amazing and lively. The boat enters the narrow canals which are surrounded by coconut trees, and where you can see Indians working. The boat has stopped in a traditional village, where we enjoyed simple Keralite lunch and saw traditional women making rope with coconut.
All of the other passengers – except me and Israeli Noam Chayut – are Indians. These Indians come from Mumbai and Tami Nadu, and the boatman is Keralite.
Different groups of Indians are communicating with each others in English. Why is that? It is because India has many official languages, and not many Indians can speak Hindi, which is common in the North. The passengers from Mumbai cannot understand Tamili.
I believe more than seven languages can be spoken in the boat of 20 passengers, which include Tamili, Malayalam (Keralite language), English, Hebrews, Cantonese and Putonghua.
We can see a lot of lotus along the trip. The Indians just pick them up and make a necklace.
Noam, who has knowledge of plantation, says ``I cannot believe it’’ when seeing the Indians picking up the flowers, fearing that it will lead to ecological disaster.
What the boatman earns is really ``blood and sweat money’’. We are not traveling in a motor boat. The boatman needs to insert the bamboo stick into the mud under the water, and then moves the boat forward before walking a few steps to pick up the stick. He needs to keep the same action for four hours! He earns Rs 100 (HK$20) each day.
Noam says he is exhausted after paddling the boat for a few minutes.
The Tamili on the boat keeps singing their province folk. When Noam is paddling the boat, they keep saying a folk song encouraging him to move faster.
南印度16天﹝四﹞/科欽的教堂 16 days in South India (4)/ Churches in Cochin
日期：2007年09月24及25日/地點：喀拉拉邦科欽 Date: 24 & 25 Sep, 2007/ Place: Cochin, Kerala
昨晚坐7小時飛機，在晚上近12時到達斯里蘭卡首都科倫坡，睡覺時已是午夜。但翌日早上4時多便起床，在5時許到機場，準備坐7:25的航班到科欽，很累。
從科欽機場到旅館Green Woods Bethlehem要一個多小時。
接下來的幾天大部份都在Fort Cochin。
這個城市頗受天主教影響。
在公元後一世紀，阿拉伯及猶太人已在科欽從事香料貿易。科欽的藩王為香料貿易與古里(Calicut)人爭戰。這爭戰讓葡萄牙人在1500年代有機會染指科欽的事務。在1663年，葡萄牙又給荷蘭人打敗了。一個世紀後，英國勢力入侵。
西方人在這裡興建了不少教堂。當中最美麗的應該是聖克魯茲教堂(Santa Cruz Basilica)。
這教堂在16世紀由葡萄牙人興建，但在1795年被英國人破壞，而在1902年重建。裡面的玻璃雕刻及裝飾實在很吸引，色彩艷麗。
這教堂也有舉行英語彌撒。我也參加了，我對天主教的一些禮儀不明白，也不懂他們唱的詩歌，但神父的講道則十分清楚，他說在神凡事都能。
聖芳濟教堂(St Francis Church)是印度最早由歐洲人興建的教堂，建於1503年。教堂原本用木興建，但在1562年改用石重建。在英國於1779年入侵後，教堂成為基督教的會所。
在這裡可以看到達加馬的墓地。達加馬是最早到印度的歐洲人，於1524年病逝科欽。其屍首在教堂埋葬了14年，其後被運回葡萄牙首都里斯本。
而印葡博物館也讓我了解一下這地方的歷史。
I had spent seven hours inside the flight, and arrived Sri Lankan capital Colombo at 12midnight. I needed to wake up at 4am the next morning and arrived at the airport at 5am for the flight to Cochin, which was departed at 7:25am. I was exhausted.
It took me an hour from Cochin airport to Green Woods Bethlehem guesthouse.
The city is influenced by Catholic.
Arab and Jewish had traded spice in Cochin in the 1st century AD. The rajas of Cochin had fought with Calicut for territory and spice trade. The fight was the reason the Portuguese were welcomed in the early 1500s. In 1663, the Portuguese were defeated by Dutch, and the British invaded a century later.
The Westerners had built many churches in the city. The most beautiful one is Santa Cruz Basilica. The church was built by the Portuguese in 16th century, but was destroyed by the British in 1795. It was rebuilt in 1902. The glass painting and decoration inside are attractive and eye-catching.
English services are held in the church. I have attended one of the English services. I do not understand the rituals of Catholic, nor the song the people sing. But I clearly understand what the father says. He says nothing is impossible in God.
The St Francis Church, built in 1503, was the first church by European in India. The original structure is wood, but it was rebuilt with stone in 1562. It has been converted into an Anglican church after the British invasion in 1779.
Vasco da Gama, the first European arriving India, was buried inside the church for 14 years after he died in Cochin in 1524. The remains of the body were moved to Lisbon afterwards.
The Indo-Portuguese Museum gave me the chance to understand more about the history.
昨晚坐7小時飛機，在晚上近12時到達斯里蘭卡首都科倫坡，睡覺時已是午夜。但翌日早上4時多便起床，在5時許到機場，準備坐7:25的航班到科欽，很累。
從科欽機場到旅館Green Woods Bethlehem要一個多小時。
接下來的幾天大部份都在Fort Cochin。
這個城市頗受天主教影響。
在公元後一世紀，阿拉伯及猶太人已在科欽從事香料貿易。科欽的藩王為香料貿易與古里(Calicut)人爭戰。這爭戰讓葡萄牙人在1500年代有機會染指科欽的事務。在1663年，葡萄牙又給荷蘭人打敗了。一個世紀後，英國勢力入侵。
西方人在這裡興建了不少教堂。當中最美麗的應該是聖克魯茲教堂(Santa Cruz Basilica)。
這教堂在16世紀由葡萄牙人興建，但在1795年被英國人破壞，而在1902年重建。裡面的玻璃雕刻及裝飾實在很吸引，色彩艷麗。
這教堂也有舉行英語彌撒。我也參加了，我對天主教的一些禮儀不明白，也不懂他們唱的詩歌，但神父的講道則十分清楚，他說在神凡事都能。
聖芳濟教堂(St Francis Church)是印度最早由歐洲人興建的教堂，建於1503年。教堂原本用木興建，但在1562年改用石重建。在英國於1779年入侵後，教堂成為基督教的會所。
在這裡可以看到達加馬的墓地。達加馬是最早到印度的歐洲人，於1524年病逝科欽。其屍首在教堂埋葬了14年，其後被運回葡萄牙首都里斯本。
而印葡博物館也讓我了解一下這地方的歷史。
I had spent seven hours inside the flight, and arrived Sri Lankan capital Colombo at 12midnight. I needed to wake up at 4am the next morning and arrived at the airport at 5am for the flight to Cochin, which was departed at 7:25am. I was exhausted.
It took me an hour from Cochin airport to Green Woods Bethlehem guesthouse.
The city is influenced by Catholic.
Arab and Jewish had traded spice in Cochin in the 1st century AD. The rajas of Cochin had fought with Calicut for territory and spice trade. The fight was the reason the Portuguese were welcomed in the early 1500s. In 1663, the Portuguese were defeated by Dutch, and the British invaded a century later.
The Westerners had built many churches in the city. The most beautiful one is Santa Cruz Basilica. The church was built by the Portuguese in 16th century, but was destroyed by the British in 1795. It was rebuilt in 1902. The glass painting and decoration inside are attractive and eye-catching.
English services are held in the church. I have attended one of the English services. I do not understand the rituals of Catholic, nor the song the people sing. But I clearly understand what the father says. He says nothing is impossible in God.
The St Francis Church, built in 1503, was the first church by European in India. The original structure is wood, but it was rebuilt with stone in 1562. It has been converted into an Anglican church after the British invasion in 1779.
Vasco da Gama, the first European arriving India, was buried inside the church for 14 years after he died in Cochin in 1524. The remains of the body were moved to Lisbon afterwards.
The Indo-Portuguese Museum gave me the chance to understand more about the history.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
