Saturday, October 13, 2007

南印度16天﹝十四﹞/西藏人屯墾區16 days in South India (14)/ Tibetan Settlement.

日期:2007年10月04日/ 地點:卡納塔克邦拜拉庫比Date:04 Oct, 2007. Place: Bylakuppe, Karnataka

是日到馬蒂科里附近的西藏人屯墾區拜拉庫比。
1950年代,印度卡納塔克邦政府把1,200公頃土地給西藏流亡人士居住,這個屯墾區從此建立。
若要在屯墾區逗留超過一天,便要在預早兩個月前向德里當局申請許可,否則只可逗留一天。
值得注意的是下午3時,有過千名僧侶在色拉傑僧伽大學一起頌經。
而南卓林寺的金佛像也是另一重點。


這個社區氣氛平靜,局民態度友善。一位居民見我步行去色拉傑僧伽大學,主動以電單車免費送我一程。
但氣氛平靜不代表僧侶們與世隔絕。他們除了學習經文外,亦要上其他課,例如化學等。而寺廟內亦有網吧,收費每小時Rs30。
寺廟外有很多藏人餐廳,那味牛肉餃子十分好吃。
晚上,屋主Anoop帶我去聽一場古典音樂會。音樂會的對象主要是中學生,因此大會特別安排問答環節,讓學生與樂隊交流。我由此知道古典印度曲的歌詞不是印地語,而是另一種語言,因為那語言比較動聽。




I visit the Tibetan settlement in Bylakuppe, which is close to Madikeri.
The Karnataka government decided to give 1,200 hectares of lands for the Tibetans in 1950’s, and the community has been established since then.
Tourists need to apply for a special permit with authority in Delhi two months prior to their visits if they intend to stay in the community overnight. They can only stay one day without the permit.
The highlight of today visit is that more than 1,000 monks reading their holy text together at 3pm in Sera Jey Monastic University. The golden Buddha in Namdroling Temple is another highlight.
The community is peaceful, and the people are friendly. A Tibetan gives me a free ride to Sera Jey Monastic University.
But peaceful atmosphere does not mean that the monks are disconnected with the outside world. They need to learn other subjects, such as chemistry, other than the holy text. There is also an internet bar inside the temple, costing Rs30 per hour.
There are a lot of Tibetan restaurants in the community, and the beef momo is very delicious.
Anoop takes me to a classical Indian concert at night. The main target audiences are secondary students, who are allowed to interact with the bands in the question-and-answer session. This makes me know that a lot of classical Indian songs are not written in Hindi, but another language that sounds more beautiful.

南印度16天﹝十三﹞/印式快餐 16 days in South India (13)/ Indian fast food.

日期:2007年10月03日/ 地點:卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:03 Oct, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka

今天的午餐很特別。在Anoop的介紹下去了一間名叫Krishna的餐廳用膳。這餐廳提供印度快餐。
餐廳的上菜速度極快。坐下後,店員立即把餐盤奉上。餐盤有飯、蔬菜及各式調味汁。
在如此地道的餐廳用餐,當然要用地道的方式品嚐食物。因此我沒有用餐具,以手進食。


除了餐盤外,店員沒有間斷地把其他各種食物奉上。這些食物當然要另外計錢。
那餐盤要Rs15(HK$3),另外我要了一塊Chapati、兩塊wada及兩件油炸食物,另加Rs16。這填滿肚子的午餐只需Rs31(HK$6)!
另外,我也買了2包250克的咖啡粉及37包100克的咖啡粉給朋友。一共花了Rs629.5,即港幣130元,很便宜。
南印度的咖啡是很出名的,常被出口國外。

Today’s lunch is very special. I have my lunch at Krishna restaurant under Anoop’s recommendation.
Service of the restaurant is very speedy. A food tray including rice, vegs and various sauce will be put on the table once you are seated.
Of course, I need to eat in Indian way in such local restaurant. So, no folks and spoons, and I need to eat with fingers.
The staff also keep giving us other food, and of course we have to pay for that.
The food tray cost Rs15 (HK$3). I have ordered one chapatti, two wada and two fried items, costing Rs16 in total. A full lunch only cost Rs31(HK$6)!
And I have bought two packs of 250g coffee powder and 37 packs of 100g coffee powder to my friends, costing Rs629.5, which is only HK$130.
South India coffee is very famous and always exported to other countries.

南印度16天﹝十二﹞/馬蒂科里 16 days in South India (12)/ Madikeri

日期:2007年10月02日/ 地點:卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:02 Oct, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka

神所創造的大自然,真的很奇妙美好。
今天與法藉夫婦及坐Anoop的四駒車去他的鄉村。途中經過他的祖屋及一間荒廢了的寺廟,這寺廟的風格也可以在柬埔寨的吳哥窟看到。


途中也經過稻田、薑田及咖啡種植園。Anoop當然也給我們講解途中見到的植物。
在他的其中一間村屋,我們享用了簡單的午餐,就是香蕉葉包飯。這天幾乎什麼也沒有做,只是看風景及聽Anoop說他的故事。


今天也嚐了人生的第一次,包括飲用印度山邊的溪水及被水蛭吸血。


大自然如此美好,保育是必要的。在城市中真的要減少消耗能源,例如少開冷氣。

The natural environment created by God is really breath taking.
I and the French couple go to Anoop’s village by one of his Land Rovers. We pass by his ancestral home and a vacant temple. The temple architectural style can now be seen in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.
We also pass by paddy fields, ginger fields and coffee plantation. Anoop of course has explained to us the plantation we see.
We enjoy simple lunch – rice wrapped with banana leaf – in one of Anoop’s village home. We have done almost nothing today, except looking at the scenery and listening to Anoop’s stories.
I have also experienced something new to my life today, including drinking stream water and giving out my blood to leeches.
The natural environment is always impressive that need to be preserved. We should all reduce energy consumption in the city, such as using less air-conditioning.

南印度16天﹝十一﹞/馬蒂科里 16 days in South India (11)/ Madikeri

日期:2007年10月01日/ 地點:卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:01 Oct, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka

今天下大雨,只在市內逛。
我挺喜歡這個地方,可能會多留兩天,大多取消班加羅爾的行程。
由於昨天是馬蒂科里的投票日,今天在街上看見巡遊人士,手持標語叫口號,而警察則在旁維持秩序。

旅館附近有一間寺廟,我看見人們把椰子拋在地上,然後拿地上的椰子吃。而在寺廟下面則是監獄,可看見警察與被扣上手扣的人進出。


再行十多分鐘,又進入了寧靜地方。這裡有一間清真寺,附近應該住了不少穆斯林,又常看到一些包了頭巾的婦女。
再向前行,到了Royal Tomb古蹟。這是皇帝家族墓穴。

這小城真的很令人舒服。

Heavy rain, and I only walk around the town.
I like this city and maybe I should stay here for two more days, canceling the trip to Bangalore.
Election in Madikeri was held yesterday. I see people marching on the street with banners and shouting slogans. Police are keeping the order in control.
There is a temple close to Dawn guesthouse. People throw the coconuts on the floor and eat them. And there is a prison next to the temple, and I can see police and handcuffed criminals going in and out.
I have entered a quiet place after walking for 10 minutes. There is a mosque, and I believe that a lot of Muslims are living around. I have always seen women covering their heads.
I have also reached the Royal Tomb.
This small city is really quiet and relaxing.

南印度16天﹝十﹞/馬蒂科里 16 days in South India (10)/ Madikeri

日期:2007年09月30日/ 地點:卡納塔克邦馬蒂科里Date:30 Sep, 2007. Place: Madikeri, Karnataka

昨晚坐11:45分的火車,今早8:30先到芒格洛爾,隨即到巴士站坐4小時車到馬蒂科里。
巴士沿途景色怡人,都是一棵棵綠色大樹,空氣清新,令人輕鬆。
馬蒂科里是果達古﹝古爾格﹞區的一部份,這裡的原住民叫果達古人。這裡是行山的好地方,如季節合適,可以見到很多大象,可惜我早了一點到這地方。而據旅遊書介紹說,這些原住民嫁女不用付嫁妝。我沒有證實這消息,但如果這是正確的話,可真是一個好的情況,因為印度經常發生婦女付不起嫁妝而給夫家燒死的事件,在農村情況特別多。
到步後,跟隨寂寞星球的介紹找到Dawn旅館,旅館老闆Anoop Chinnappa是一個環保戰士,詳情可看這裡
傍晚與法國夫婦Patrice及Fanny和Anoop Chinnappa步行45分鐘上山看日落,Anoop的兩只狗Pinko及Snowie也跟在一起。這裡的風景真的很好,山上白雲很多,很舒服,可以想像在不同的時間,這裡的景色會有所不同。


Anoop在6年前,在街上看到Pinko被人遺棄,把牠拿回家收養。牠去年生了四頭小狗,但其中兩頭被人偷去,另外一頭被車碾死,只留下Snowie。牠現在又懷孕了。

步行後,跟法藉夫婦一起找印度人Vinod晚餐。Vinod是一間當地環境教育中心的負責人,而他同時也是一個商人,也是一些滿腦子有不同計劃的人,例如他想把生意盈利的百分之5抽起,用作在互聯網推動環保發展。
很高興在這地方看到熱心的人。

I was on board the train at 11:45pm last night, and arrived Mangalore at 8:30 this morning before taking a 4-hour bus to Madikeri.
The scenery along the bus route is nice. Trees are scattered along and the air is fresh. These just make me relaxed.
Madikeri (Mercara) is part of the Kodagu (Coorg) region, and its native is called Kodavas. This is a place for hiking, and you can see a lot of elephants if you are traveling in the right time. But it seems that I have arrived earlier.
Travel guidebook says the wedding of the native people here rarely involves dowry. I have not verified the information, but it would be a good news if it is true. Many women in India are burnt to death by their husband families for failing to pay the dowry, which is more common in remote villages.
I follow the recommendation of Lonely Plant to reach Dawn guesthouse. The owner of the guesthouse is Anoop Chinnappa, who is an ecowarrior. Details about him can click here.
Anoop took me and a French couple, Patrice and Fanny, for a 45-minute short walk to the hill to see the sunset. Anoop’s two dogs, Pinko and Snowie, also accompany us. The scenery is impressive. Blue sky and the clouds are clear, and I can imagine that the scenery keeps changing in different times.
Anoop took stray dog Pinko home when she was abandoned six years ago. She gave birth to four puppies last year. But two of the small dogs were stolen, and one killed after being trapped beneath a car. Only Snowie can survive. Pinko is pregnant again.
After the walk, I go to dinner with the French couple and another Indian Vinod. Vinod is the person-in-charge of an environmental education centre in the city, and himself is also a businessmen. He is also the person with many ideas in his mind. For example, he wishes to donate five percent of his business income for promoting environmental awareness with the internet.
It is glad to see enthusiastic people.

南印度16天﹝九﹞/Cherai Beach 16 days in South India (9)/ Cherai Beach

日期:2007年09月29日/ 地點:喀拉拉邦科欽Date:29 Sep, 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala

我沒有去過泰國及哥亞,但我相信Cherai Beach可能比泰國及哥亞的海灘遜色。但在Cochin來說,這也是一個很好的地方,很多老百姓在談情。


到Cherai Beach,要先由Fort Cochin坐船到Vypeen Island,再坐45分鐘巴士。
而由Fort Cochin到Vypeen Island的船又印證了印度是一個把什麼東西都放在一起的多元化國家。這艘船不只載人,也載車。無論坐滿學童的校巴、有客人的三輪車、單車、電單車及私家車也可上船,甚至是雪糕車也是這樣過海做生意。


回旅館後,享受了一餐住家晚飯。之後便去火車站,坐火車去卡納塔克邦的芒格洛爾。


I have never been to Thailand and Goa, but I believe that Cherai beach is not as attractive as those in Thailand and Goa. But it is still a beautiful place in Cochin, attracting many couples.
I need to take a jetty to Vypeen Island from Fort Cochin before taking a 45-minutes bus to the beach. The jetty to and from Vypeen Island is another example showing India is a diversified country that put different things together. The boat does not only carry passengers, but also cars. Fully seated school buses, rickshaws with passengers, bicycle, motorcycle and private car can also on board the jetty, and even the ice-cream cars are crossing the harbour by it.
I have enjoyed a homemade dinner at the Green Woods Bethlehem guesthouse before going to the train station for Mangalore in Karnataka.

南印度16天﹝八﹞/討論政治 16 days in South India (8)/ Political discussion

日期:2007年09月28日/ 地點:喀拉拉邦科欽Date:28 Sep, 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala

出發前不太想過在印度會談及政治。
在斯里蘭卡,關員檢查我的護照後,問我香港與中國有什麼關係。我說香港是中國的一個城市。他再問我香港是否只是一個中國城市及香港是否與中國分開等問題,我答香港是屬於中國的。
以色列的Noam也問了很多問題,例如香港是否奉行社會主義以及會否容許私人企業的存在等。
印度喀拉拉邦是社會主義的省份,在1957年成立全球首個民選的社會主義政府。
在這裡很容易看到社會主義的象徵。連咖啡店的餐牌也印有哲古華拉的樣貌。


而邦政府大力投資教育及醫療服務,以致識字率達百分之91。而財富分佈也較平均,這幾天在街上很少看到乞丐。這裡的市政府叫Corporation of Cochin。
曾在亞洲週刊讀到一篇有關喀拉拉邦解決貧窮的報導:
「印度手捲煙行業約600萬全職和兼職工人,生財工具只要一把剪刀、一個竹盆、靈巧的手、專注的精神,一天可卷600至2000支煙,入息微薄,卷1000支煙的收入相當於3港元。這是低賤的行業,辛勞的活。但是,一些捲煙工人幾十年來有一個習慣:工人分成30至40人一組,每組由一人輪流專責朗讀報紙和書,讓他們一邊工作,一邊聽讀報念書,一邊討論。每天晚上,各人把一些捲煙交給讀報工人,讓他有同等收入。」
在市內真的看見老百姓在讀書室讀報。

不知是否在這種環境下成長會令提高人民的政治意識。一位餐廳侍應突然問我是否對政治有興趣。問我香港是否實行社會主義,又問我有否加入共產黨。
這位侍應說他明白香港與中國的關係,就像印度各邦的情況一樣,每個邦有自己的邦政府,而這些邦政府要向中央政府負責。
侍應說這城市正上演一套電影,內容是一個喀拉拉人,因為迷戀中國共產主義,而愛上一個由杜拜到印度的中國女子。
其實,也有其他老百姓得悉我是香港人後,也說出中國是共產主義的話。
雖然邦政府很進取,但喀拉拉邦也面對不少問題。由於當地缺乏工業發展,以致人民收入不多。很多受過教育的年青人感到失望而自殺或到中東國家工作,以獲得外匯養家。南華早報早前刊登了一篇報導諷刺這個社會主義邦的人民要賺取資本主義的金錢。

I have never expected that I will be involved in political discussion before departing Hong Kong.
In Sri Lanka, the immigration officer asked me on the relationship between Hong Kong and China. I told him that Hong Kong is a Chinese city. He went on asking me if Hong Kong was only a Chinese city and if Hong Kong was separated from China. I replied that Hong Kong is part of China.
Israeli Noam had also asked a lot of such questions, for example, whether Hong Kong was a socialist community and whether private corporations were accepted.
Kerala is a socialist state of India, having the world’s first elected socialist government in 1957. The symbols of socialism are always seen in the city, and even the menu of a café has the photos of Che Guevara printed.
The state government heavily invests in education and health services, leading to the literacy rate of 91 percent and the more even distribution of wealth. I have rarely seen beggars in Cochin, which the municipal government is called Corporation of Cochin.
I have read a report in Yazhouzhoukan concerning how Kerala government tackles poverty.
The article says ``The cigarette rolling industry employs 6 million full-time and part-time workers in India. The workers only need a scissor, bamboo boat, a pair flexible hands and concentration to earn money. Each worker can roll between 600 and 2000 cigarettes each day. Their income is minimal as rolling 1,000 cigarettes will only give them HK$3. This is a low-class job. However, the workers have a decades long habit. They are grouped into between 30 and 40 workers, and there is a specialized person in each group responsible for reading newspaper and books to the workers. Therefore, the workers can actually read and discuss the papers while doing their job. The workers will give some cigarettes to the newspaper readers as salary.’’
I have seen ordinary citizens reading newspapers in reading room.
I wonder whether the people will be more politically alerted under such environment. A restaurant staff has suddenly asked me whether I am interested in politics, whether Hong Kong is a socialist community and whether I have joined the Communist Party.
The staff says he understands the relationship between Hong Kong and China, and says it is like the relationship between different states of India. Each state of India has its own government, but they need to report to the country central government.
He also says a movie is being shown in the city, which is about a Keralite man falling in love with a Chinese woman from Dubai as he is obsessed with Chinese communism.
Indeed, many Indians say they know China is a communist country when they know that I am from Hong Kong.
Although Kerala government is progressive, the state faces many problems. People are not earning high income because of the lack of industrial development. A lot of educated youngsters feel disappointed, committing suicide and going to Middle East countries for earning foreign currencies to support their families. The South China Morning Post has published an article satirizing the residents of the socialist state need to earn capitalist money.

南印度16天﹝七﹞/中國漁網 16 days in South India (7)/ Chinese fishing net

日期:2007年09月27日/ 地點:喀拉拉邦科欽Date:27 Sep, 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala

科欽的漁產非常著名,常常見到漁夫販賣漁獲。


而漁夫都是在海岸以中國漁網捕魚。


這種在中國也再見不到的漁網,據說是在鄭和下西洋時傳入印度。簡單來說,就是利用杠杆原理,把重物綁在一端,將漁網一時放入水中,一時拉起。有漁獲時,漁夫會拉起繩索,之後再把漁網放回水中。而隨其他捕魚方法的發明,這種漁網已逐漸被取代。



我平時不多吃魚,但慨然來到這地方,無論如何也要品嚐一下海鮮。昨晚與以色列的Noam吃了烤魚,很美味,而魚亦沒有腥味。今天吃了烤烏賊,也很好吃。
在用餐的地方,有一種名叫specialty的飲品,詢問之下發現這是啤酒。因為當地政府規定賣啤酒要交牌費,一些食店為避過政府的耳目,把啤酒放在茶壺當茶出售。



Fish in Cochin is very famous, and fishermen selling their items are always seen in the city.
The fishermen get what they want with the use of Chinese fishing nets.
Such net, which is rarely seen in China, is said to be imported to India by Zheng He.
Applying the lever theory, the fishermen connected heavy stones to one side of the net. They will put the net under the water or pull it up if they have caught fish. The net is being replaced by other fishery methods.
I don’t like eating fish. But I think I need to try in this place. Yesterday night, I ate grilled fish with Israeli Noam. The fish was delicious and without the fishy smell. Tonight, I try the roast squid, which is also very good.
A drink named ``specialty’’ is available in the restaurant. It is actually beer. Restaurant staff says that they need to pay license fees for selling beer. To avoid paying the fees, they package beer as a special tea.

南印度16天﹝六﹞/卡塔卡利舞 16 days in South India (6)/ Kathakali Dance

船河外,今天也是文化日,欣賞了卡塔卡利舞的演出。
綜合各方介紹,卡塔卡利舞已流傳超過300年,是目前印度古典舞蹈中唯一還保持用梵文演唱的劇種,但比起古代梵劇,卡塔卡利已有不少改進和發展。卡塔卡利的題材多選自印度兩部重要史詩《羅摩衍那》和《摩訶婆羅多》。主題大都是描寫神或英雄人物如何戰勝邪惡的故事。按這兩部史詩編創過的保留劇目有大約500部,而廣爲流傳的就有50餘部,可以說卡塔卡利如同一面歷史的鏡子,從中可以領略到印度古代衆多的風情。
卡塔卡利的所有角色,都由男士擔任,女角也由年輕漂亮的男子扮演。一名卡塔卡利舞蹈演員從7歲至12歲開始,要經過大約十二年的嚴格訓練,是印度古典舞中受訓時間最長的舞種。演員除了要練舞功外,還要對面部的眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等部位進行訓練,讓它們都能運動自如。在印度古典舞中,卡塔卡利對眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等部位的應用之多,難度之大都遠遠超過印度其他各派。
傳統卡塔卡利舞是由晚上9時演至翌日清晨。但現在可以欣賞1小時的濃縮版。表演一般由晚上六時至七時開始。而值得注意的是,演員在表演前約兩小時開始化妝,觀眾可以看見表演者把不同顏料塗在面上,這是不可錯過的。

卡塔卡利的重要特點是它強烈的戲劇性。表演者不說話,卻運用24個基本手勢和眼、眉、嘴、臉頰、頸等面部動作,構成一整套的示意動作,它們是劇情和人物感情交流的重要手段。而在每段戲劇表演之間通常要加上一段激烈的純舞蹈:大蹲襠步、單腿控制、急速旋轉以及腳掌、腳側完成的各種腳點和跳躍動作,構成了卡塔卡利男性舞蹈健壯英武的風格。富有特色戲劇效果的各種臉譜,是卡塔卡利的又一重要特徵,不同角色有不同的臉譜,但只以人物類別劃分,如英雄人物爲綠色,反派人物要加紅色,並在鼻尖和額頭加白色飾物:正面女角爲肉色,獵人爲黑色等。


伴奏樂隊通常是四人――兩位鼓手和兩位吟頌者。

舞蹈表演後,又遇上以色列的Noam,大家一起吃美味的烤魚,之後去欣賞小型傳統音樂會。鼓手的表現很精彩。




Today is a cultural day. I have enjoyed the Kathakali Dance.
According to www.keralatourism.org, Kerala owes its transnational fame to this nearly 300 years old classical dance form which combines facets of ballet, opera, masque and the pantomime. It is said to have evolved from other performing arts like Kootiyattam, Krishnanattam and Kalarippayattu. Kathakali explicates ideas and stories from the Indian epics and Puranas.
Presented in the temple precincts after dusk falls Kathakali is heralded by the Kelikottu or the beating of drums in accompaniment of the Chengila (gong). The riches of a happy blending of colour, expressions, music, drama and dance is unparallelled in any other art form.
Costume is elaborate with the face painted up. Great importance is laid on the Vesham or make-up which are of five types - Pacha, Kathi, Thadi, Kari and Minukku.
The pomp and magnificence of Kathakali is partly due to its decor part of which is the kireetam or huge headgear and the kanchukam the over sized jackets, and a long skirt worn over a thick padding of cushions. The identity of the actor is completely mutilated to create a super human being of larger-than-life proportion.
The orchestra is formed of two varieties of drums - the maddalam and chenda; the chengila which is a bell metal gong and the ilathalam or cymbals.
Students of Kathakali have to undergo rigorous training replete with oil massages and separate exercises for eyes, lips, cheeks, mouth and neck. Abhinaya or expression is of prime importance as is nritya or dance and geetham or singing.
Together with highly evocative facial expressions, the mudras and the music both vocal and instrumental, Kathakali unfolds stories from a bygone era in a lofty style reminiscent of the Greek plays. Kerala Kalamandalam , is the prominent institution imparting Kathakali training in the traditional way.
More information can be found at wikipedia.
I have met Noam from Israel after the dance performance. We ate delicious grill fish before going to a traditional Indian music concert. The drum performance is impressive.

Friday, October 12, 2007

南印度16天﹝五﹞/回流水船河 16 days in South India (5)/ Backwater trip

日期:2007年09月26日/ 地點:喀拉拉邦科欽 Date: 26, Sep 2007. Place: Cochin, Kerala

今天參加了六小時的回流水船河,沿途風景優美,挺有意思。
根據牛津字典,「回流水」的意思是「與水流沒聯繫的水,即死水。又或是一個沒有發展的地方。」
但喀拉拉邦的死水是令人驚訝與充滿活力。船隻進入窄的河道,而這些河道又被椰子樹包圍。我又看見很多印度人在沿岸工作。船隻在一村鄉村停下,讓大家享用傳統喀拉拉邦午餐及看看婦女如何以椰子做繩。




除了我和以色列人Noam Chayut外,船上所有遊客都是印度人。他們來自泰米爾納德邦及孟買。而船夫則是喀拉拉人。
來自不同地方的印度人以英語溝通。為什麼呢?因為印度有多種官方語言,在北方較盛行的印地語不是每個人也懂。來自孟買的人聽不懂泰米爾納德語及印地語。
就這樣,船上約20人,可以說的語言有7種,包括泰米爾納德語、Malayalam﹝喀拉拉邦的語言﹞、英語、希伯來語、粵語及普通話。
船夫賺取的名副其實是血汗錢。這艘船不是機動船,船夫首先要把竹杆插入水底下的泥土,然後借力推動船隻,再步行數步把竹杆提起。他要重複這動作數小時,艱辛程度可想而知。船夫說他每天賺取Rs100﹝港幣20元﹞。


Noam嘗試划船幾分鐘,之後說疲累。


船上的印度人常常在唱他們的民歌。當Noam划船時,他們唱的民歌是叫Noam動作快點。


I joined a six-hour backwater trip. It is a meaningful trip as the scenery is breath taking. Oxford dictionary says backwater means ``a part of river not reached by the current, where the water is stagnant, and a place or state in which no development is taking place.’’
But the ``stagnant’’ water in Kerala is amazing and lively. The boat enters the narrow canals which are surrounded by coconut trees, and where you can see Indians working. The boat has stopped in a traditional village, where we enjoyed simple Keralite lunch and saw traditional women making rope with coconut.
All of the other passengers – except me and Israeli Noam Chayut – are Indians. These Indians come from Mumbai and Tami Nadu, and the boatman is Keralite.
Different groups of Indians are communicating with each others in English. Why is that? It is because India has many official languages, and not many Indians can speak Hindi, which is common in the North. The passengers from Mumbai cannot understand Tamili.
I believe more than seven languages can be spoken in the boat of 20 passengers, which include Tamili, Malayalam (Keralite language), English, Hebrews, Cantonese and Putonghua.
We can see a lot of lotus along the trip. The Indians just pick them up and make a necklace.
Noam, who has knowledge of plantation, says ``I cannot believe it’’ when seeing the Indians picking up the flowers, fearing that it will lead to ecological disaster.
What the boatman earns is really ``blood and sweat money’’. We are not traveling in a motor boat. The boatman needs to insert the bamboo stick into the mud under the water, and then moves the boat forward before walking a few steps to pick up the stick. He needs to keep the same action for four hours! He earns Rs 100 (HK$20) each day.
Noam says he is exhausted after paddling the boat for a few minutes.
The Tamili on the boat keeps singing their province folk. When Noam is paddling the boat, they keep saying a folk song encouraging him to move faster.

南印度16天﹝四﹞/科欽的教堂 16 days in South India (4)/ Churches in Cochin

日期:2007年09月24及25日/地點:喀拉拉邦科欽 Date: 24 & 25 Sep, 2007/ Place: Cochin, Kerala

昨晚坐7小時飛機,在晚上近12時到達斯里蘭卡首都科倫坡,睡覺時已是午夜。但翌日早上4時多便起床,在5時許到機場,準備坐7:25的航班到科欽,很累。
從科欽機場到旅館Green Woods Bethlehem要一個多小時。

接下來的幾天大部份都在Fort Cochin。
這個城市頗受天主教影響。
在公元後一世紀,阿拉伯及猶太人已在科欽從事香料貿易。科欽的藩王為香料貿易與古里(Calicut)人爭戰。這爭戰讓葡萄牙人在1500年代有機會染指科欽的事務。在1663年,葡萄牙又給荷蘭人打敗了。一個世紀後,英國勢力入侵。
西方人在這裡興建了不少教堂。當中最美麗的應該是聖克魯茲教堂(Santa Cruz Basilica)。


這教堂在16世紀由葡萄牙人興建,但在1795年被英國人破壞,而在1902年重建。裡面的玻璃雕刻及裝飾實在很吸引,色彩艷麗。
這教堂也有舉行英語彌撒。我也參加了,我對天主教的一些禮儀不明白,也不懂他們唱的詩歌,但神父的講道則十分清楚,他說在神凡事都能。


聖芳濟教堂(St Francis Church)是印度最早由歐洲人興建的教堂,建於1503年。教堂原本用木興建,但在1562年改用石重建。在英國於1779年入侵後,教堂成為基督教的會所。
在這裡可以看到達加馬的墓地。達加馬是最早到印度的歐洲人,於1524年病逝科欽。其屍首在教堂埋葬了14年,其後被運回葡萄牙首都里斯本。


而印葡博物館也讓我了解一下這地方的歷史。


I had spent seven hours inside the flight, and arrived Sri Lankan capital Colombo at 12midnight. I needed to wake up at 4am the next morning and arrived at the airport at 5am for the flight to Cochin, which was departed at 7:25am. I was exhausted.

It took me an hour from Cochin airport to Green Woods Bethlehem guesthouse.

The city is influenced by Catholic.

Arab and Jewish had traded spice in Cochin in the 1st century AD. The rajas of Cochin had fought with Calicut for territory and spice trade. The fight was the reason the Portuguese were welcomed in the early 1500s. In 1663, the Portuguese were defeated by Dutch, and the British invaded a century later.

The Westerners had built many churches in the city. The most beautiful one is Santa Cruz Basilica. The church was built by the Portuguese in 16th century, but was destroyed by the British in 1795. It was rebuilt in 1902. The glass painting and decoration inside are attractive and eye-catching.

English services are held in the church. I have attended one of the English services. I do not understand the rituals of Catholic, nor the song the people sing. But I clearly understand what the father says. He says nothing is impossible in God.

The St Francis Church, built in 1503, was the first church by European in India. The original structure is wood, but it was rebuilt with stone in 1562. It has been converted into an Anglican church after the British invasion in 1779.

Vasco da Gama, the first European arriving India, was buried inside the church for 14 years after he died in Cochin in 1524. The remains of the body were moved to Lisbon afterwards.

The Indo-Portuguese Museum gave me the chance to understand more about the history.

Thursday, October 11, 2007

南印度十六天﹝三﹞/南印度人﹝三﹞16 days in South India (3)/ South Indians (3)

在喀拉拉邦及卡塔納克邦,常常看見穿著校服的小朋友及校巴穿梭街道。
據說南印度教育的普及程度比北部好。在喀拉拉邦,識字率也達到百分之90,實屬可喜。
不知是否與教育的普及有關,這裡的人比較友善。舉例說,兜售紀念品的人與三輪車司機不會跟你糾纏數條街,你只要說一句:「No,Thanks。」他們也不會再騷擾你。
在科欽的火車站侯車時,突然有一群印度人問我從那裡來及為何到印度等。我回答:「Hong Kong,China。」他們隨即回應:「Communist China。」
我看著他們,呆了不知如何回應,心中擔心他們是那些想佔便宜的人。到最後,他們的火車到了,他們主動跟我握手說:「Have a nice journey。」
什麼不愉快的事也沒有發生,他們只想打個招呼而已。
在馬蒂科里,一位旅遊景點﹝下圖﹞看守員下班後,帶我到當地一間有名的寺廟,而不收分毫,又拒絕了我請他坐三輪車回家的提議。


我又遇到幾位警員﹝下圖﹞,突然要求拍照。


在馬蒂科里市集逛時,其中一個商販﹝下圖﹞好像很興奮,要求我為他及其朋友合照。我想把照片電郵或郵寄給他,可惜因為語言障礙而辦不到。



I have always seen children in school uniform and school buses in Kerala and Karnataka.
It is reported that education standard in South India is better than in the North. The literacy rate of Kerala has reached over 90 percent, which should be a good news.
People in the South are friendlier, and I believe this has something to do with the education. For example, the souvenir sales and rickshaw drivers will not beg you and chase you for a long period of time. They will stop approaching you if you say ``No, Thanks’’.
A group of Indians suddenly approached me when I was waiting my train in Cochin. They asked me where I came from and why did I go to India. I told them that I came from Hong Kong, China, and they immediately replied, ``Communist China.’’
I was confused at that time, and thinking whether they want to take advantages from me. But they shook hands with me and greeted me with ``Have a nice journey’’ when their train approached the platform.
Nothing undesirable had happened, and they merely wanted to chat with me.
In Madikeri, a staff of a tourist attraction took me to a famous Hindu temple of the town without taking my money and accepts my offer to give him a free rickshaw ride.
Several policemen also suddenly asked me to take pictures.
And one of the sales in the market of Madikeri was very excited when seeing me. He asked me to take pictures of him and his friends. I wanted to send the pictures to him via email or post, but the language barrier hindered me from doing that.

16 days in South India (2)/ South Indian (2)

Anoop Chinnappa, owner of Dawn guesthouse, Madikeri, Karnataka.

Anoop with his two woman doggies Pinko and Snowie.

The reason why I came to Anoop’s place is because – other than cheap accommodation – of the introduction of the Lonely Planet, which said `` This is the home of enthusiastic ecowarrior Anoop Chinnappa, who can also organize treks. It’s 1km from the bus stand, and although the rooms are basic, they have personality.’’
I had been imagining how did an ecowarrior look like since I was on board the train in Cochin, Kerala. I immediately took an autorickshaw to the place once I had reached Madikeri bus station.
The rickshaw driver stopped in a road which was not paved with concrete, and told me that the red house was Dawn. I found that the house was empty and I was questioning the accuracy of LP when I reached the gate.

I opened the gate, walked through the garden and heard some noise behind the door. I kept knocking the door, and I heard a person running from upstairs. Then I saw a man with a shining face who greeted me ``Hi, I am Anoop’’ with resonant voice.
The rooms at his place are really simple, and there is nothing else except the bed. But I appreciated the elegance of the house after staying there for a few days. I had once sitting in the living room a whole day almost doing nothing. Normally, when I am traveling alone, I will still turn on the light when sleeping for better sense of security. However, switching off the light is not a problem for me at this place.


I told Anoop that I found the place because of LP. He seemed very excited as if he had discovered new things, and showed my LP book to others.
Then he took me out for lunch. He was aware that I was exhausted after spending more than 10 hours in train and bus, and he had asked me whether I want a hot shower. A hot shower is not an easy matter. It is not as simple as turning on the water heater or gas. It took him 20 minutes to heat a bucket of water. He did the same thing almost every night, and he also prepared coffee every morning.
On my first day of arrival, he took me and a French couple out for a 45-minute short walk to the hill. He showed discontent with the government plan to cut down trees for building a park.
On the same night, he showed us the slides he had taken, which were the scenery around India.
His voice is always resonant, and it seems that he always has endless stories and plans to share. Visitors are not only tourists, but also his witnesses.
He is buying lands in the villages for the elephants. These elephants could originally live in peace with human. However, they started invading village lands as their living places were destroyed, leaving them no food. The farmers of the villages were annoyed and hated elephants. To tackle the problem, Anoop is buying lands from these farmers for the elephants.
Anoop, himself a farmer before, was also once scared of elephants. But he changed his attitude and started the conservation work after mingling with foreign tourists who had knowledge of animals and plantations. He wants to launch more conservation works in his family lands in the village, but fails to win family members support. He had even fought a battle in court against his family members over the use of family lands. But Anoop is a lucky man, who has constitutional right to inherit the lands because he is the eldest son. Without him signing the document and with him staying at home, his family members can neither sell the lands nor build anything on it.
There was once an Italian offering to buy Anoop’s ancestor home, but Anoop refused the offer.
Anoop said he was a man with no planning, but he was full of different ideas to be accomplished. He wants to make a movie on elephants, and build some simple huts on his family lands in which electricity and beers will be forbidden, and only vegetarian food will be provided.
He also wants to go traveling in China and crossing the China-India border with one of his Land Rovers, or maybe entering China via Pakistan with the Karakoram Highway. I am interested in such idea.
It seems that Anoop is always a lucky man. His US partner in the travel trade industry had died of a disease, and Anoop inherited his eight Land Rovers, which was an unimaginable thing in India in the 90’s.
He was taking me and the French couple to his village with one of such Land Rovers. He explained in details the plantations in the village, and eagerly told us what he had planted and what would be planted in the future.
The natural environment is a source for energy. When glazing at the sky and trees at the village, he says ``I can sense the energy.’’
I wonder whether those who love the nature are egocentric as Anoop is reluctant to be in partnership with others. The 2005 edition of LP said he was an eccentric ecowarrior. He said he would need to rely on his partners, which might affect his own will, if he was involved in partnership.
But it also seems that he has a lot of friends as he keeps chatting with and greeting people when going out.

南印度十六天﹝二﹞/南印度人﹝二﹞

卡納塔克邦(Karnataka)馬蒂科里(Madikeri)Dawn guest house的老闆Anoop Chinnappa。


Anoop與他的兩只母狗Pinko及Snowie。
到他的地方投宿,除了價錢便宜外,還有是因為Lonely Planet(LP)的介紹:「This is the home of enthusiastic ecowarrior Anoop Chinnappa, who can also organize treks. It’s 1km from the bus stand, and although the rooms are basic, they have personality。」(翻譯:這是狂熱環保鬥士Anoop Chinnappa的房子。而Anoop亦會舉辦行山團。房子距離巴士站一公里。房間雖然簡單,但有個性。)
由喀拉拉邦科欽上火車開始,就在想像一個環保鬥士是什麼樣子。到達馬蒂科里巴士站後,立即坐三輪車去這旅館。
三輪車司機在一段路況不太好的地方停下,然後叫我步行去一間紅色的房屋。到達閘門時,屋內空無一人,令我懷疑LP的介紹。


我推開閘門,走過花園,聽到門後好像有人聲,於是不停地敲門,然後聽到急促的腳步聲從2樓跑下來。我再看見一個容光煥發的人,以瞭亮的聲音說:「Hi, I am Anoop。」
房間的設計真的很簡單,除了一張床外,什麼也沒有。但住下幾天,我感到整座80年的房子很優雅。我試過一整天坐在客廳休息而什麼也不做。而通常我自己一個人外遊時,我都會開燈睡覺,覺我這樣會安全一點。但在這間房子,關燈後也覺舒暢。



我說因為LP介紹而找到他的家,Anoop很興奮,好像發現新事物似的,把我的LP給其他人看。
之後他帶我去吃午飯。他知道我坐了十多個小時火車及巴士,感到疲累,在飯後問我要不要沖熱水浴。沖熱水浴不是容易的事,不是開煤氣或熱水器便辦到,而是要花20分鐘以上燒一桶水。此後,他每晚也燒一桶熱水給我,而每清早也奉上咖啡一杯。
在投宿首天,他帶我和一對法國夫婦步行45分鐘上山。沿途他對當局斬樹以騰出空地興建公園表示不滿。
也在當晚,他放他所拍攝的幻燈片,全部都是印度各地的風光。
他的聲音永遠瞭亮,他好像有說不完的故事及計劃與人分享,遊人不只是旅客那麼簡單,而是他的見證人。
他買下鄉村的土地為大象提供棲息地方。這些大象的生活原本與人無爭,但因為他們的地方受破壞,缺乏食物,便入侵鄉村土地,使農夫備受困擾,繼而討厭大象。Anoop便購入這些農夫的土地,讓大象安靜地居住。
而Anoop自己從前也是個農夫,也曾怕大象,但當他跟一些對動植物有認識的外地遊客接觸多後才改變自己的態度及從事保育工作。他想在家族土地進行更多環保工作,但他的家人不支持,以致他與家人關係不好。雙方甚至因為家族土地的使用而鬧上法庭。但Anoop是一個幸運的人,因為他是長子,在憲法上有土地承繼權。只要他一天還在家鄉及不簽同意書,其家人也不能變賣土地或在其上興建其他東西。曾經,一個意大利人想買他的祖屋,但被他拒絕。
Anoop說他不是一個有計劃的人,但滿腦子卻有很多想做的事。他想拍一套關於大象的電影。也想在家族土地興建一些簡單宿舍,當中沒有電力及啤酒供應,餐飲只有素菜。
他又想到中國旅遊,以他的Land Rover跨越中印邊境,而當中可能經巴基斯坦從喀拉崑崙公路入中國。我對這意念也有幻想。
幸運之神似乎對Anoop特別看顧。他的一位美國人旅行社拍擋因病逝世,他也因此而繼承了這拍擋的八部Land Rover。在90年代的印度,這是一年不可思議的事。
他便是以其中一架Land Rover帶我和法國夫婦去他的土地與鄉村。沿途他仔細地解釋各種植物,又興致勃勃地說他在什麼地方種了什麼植物,而將來又會種什麼東西。
大自然對他來說是力量的來源。在鄉村裡,他看著藍天白雲與大樹,然後嘆道:「I can sense the energy。」
但不知道愛護大自然的人是否都比較自我中心,Anoop不太願意與人合作。2005年版的LP便說他是一個eccentric (古怪的) ecowarrior,他說與人合作,就要聽拍擋的意見,會影響自己。但這個人又好像有很多朋友,外出時總跟不同的人聊天及打招呼。

南印度十六天﹝一﹞/南印度人﹝一﹞16 days in South India (1)/ South Indian (1)

這次旅行真的很好玩。當中一個原因,是南印度人的好客,令這地方吸引。南印度人很友善,在這地方行走覺得安全,不太擔心被騙及東西被偷。因此,要在這裡介紹。

喀拉拉邦科欽Green Woods Bethlehem旅館老闆的一家。爸爸叫Ashley Edwin Philip,而媽媽叫Sheeba。


這間旅館成立約5年。看照片也知,他們信天主教。
他們真的很好客,你可以與他們一家人享用晚餐,而每天清早起來,他們會為你預備早餐,而你也可在任何時候飲他們的咖啡。
每當你查問旅遊資料,他們雖然未必瞭若指掌,但也盡力地問朋友找尋答案。一些外國遊客會在旅館住上幾個月,除旅遊外也從事各式各樣活動,例如藝術教育。
房租每晚Rs500﹝相等於港幣100元﹞。離開的一天,我想給他們一點小費,當作咖啡錢也好晚餐錢也好,但他們拒絕了。

This trip is fantastic. One of the reasons behind is the hospitality of South Indians, which make this place attractive. South Indians are very friendly. I feel safe walking around without the fears of being robbed and cheated. I wish to introduce them here.

The family of the owner of Green Woods Bethlehem guest house in Cochin, Kerala. The father is Ashley Edwin Philip and the mother is Sheeba.
This guest house is established for about five years. As you can see in the picture, the family believes in Catholic.
They are really hospitable. You can enjoy dinner with the whole family. And your breakfast is prepared everyday after you wake up. You can also ask for a cup of coffee whenever you want.
They may not know the answers to your travel-related questions, but they will ask their friends for the details. Some of the overseas guests will stay in the house for months. Apart from tourism, some of these guests are engaged in other activities, such as arts education.
The room charge is Rs500 per night (HK$100). I attempted to give them some tips on the day of leaving for their coffee and dinner, but they refused my offer.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Indian Music 2

I recorded the music during a small concert in Cochin, Kerala, India, yesterday. The drum is impressive.

Get this widget | Track details | eSnips Social DNA

Indian Music

I recorded the music in a small concert in Cochin, Kerala, India, yesterday.

Get this widget | Track details | eSnips Social DNA

Friday, September 21, 2007

未來18天……

大部份時間在南印度。兩天在香港,兩天在斯里蘭卡,十四天在印度。
要看一本英文書,要改善英文。
要想想如何處理一些事,前後左右抑或原地踏步?
假期前應該很期待及興奮,但不知何解這些天心情好像不太好。

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

慈悲的天父,求袮使我哥盡快找到一份穩定的工作,使他有穩定的收入。
也求袮使兩位行家找到一份更適合自己的工作。主啊!我相信若把他們放在適當的位置,他們會全力以赴,熱誠地對待工作。主,袮一定有袮的安排,但以我們的渺小,實在很難猜透袮的旨意。等待的時間實在難耐,天天面對煩躁及迷茫的環境,使人心生厭惡的情緒。所以,求袮賜我智慧去明白,也賜我一顆順服與平靜的心。
在安德烈行動中,我也有定下及擺上目標。我知道,我未必可以在兩個月內達到目標,因為這是一個長遠的行動。我知道,要慢慢來,畢竟他的情況已持續了一段長時間。
我現在期待我的大假。會去南印度,機票已訂了。求袮使我愉快及平安。在到處是恐怖侵襲的年代,平安好像越來越珍貴。
孩子奉主名求,阿門。

Sunday, September 16, 2007

999元的咖啡

對呀,又北上深圳了,畢竟愛周圍玩。



今次,特地去了朋友介紹的「香港皇家咖啡」,地點在Coco Park對面。
去這間咖啡店,不是因為其飯品特別好,而是因為其售賣的其中一種咖啡,要999元人民幣(即132美元)一杯。
店員說來說去也說不出是什麼咖啡豆,只道是優質品種。如要品嚐,要預早跟師傅約定時間。但也說從來沒有人買過這杯咖啡。

想像了以下一個情景。
一個不知是何方神聖的暴發戶走進這咖啡店,看到價錢牌後,便二話不說點了這杯999元的咖啡。
喝了一口後,不理咖啡豆是產自哥倫比亞抑或巴西,不去想想這是藍山或是Latte,也沒有分清這杯咖啡與數塊錢一罐的雀巢有什麼分別,便興奮地道出:「超值,這杯咖啡很超值,很好味。這麼貴的咖啡我也買得起,你看我們的消費力多強多大,我們多繁盛,比老外多好。」

Friday, September 14, 2007

近來

仍然是M到的日子,因為各種原因‧‧‧‧‧
也有期待與戰戰兢兢,下週快些完結。

Wednesday, September 05, 2007

上帝

昨天看「嚟多件衰鬼上帝」(Evan Almighty),很輕鬆,不錯。

故事講述剛獲選為國會議員的Evan(史提夫加維飾),為方便工作,決定和家人由水牛城搬到華盛頓。大鄉里Evan一心以為自己仕途一片光明,正準備大展拳腳,卻又像當年的Bruce(占基利飾)一樣突然遇著黑鬼上帝(金像得主摩根費曼飾)。黑鬼上帝仲命令佢要好似聖經記載咁整隻挪亞荒舟,並要將地球上所有生物一雌一雄帶到船上,避過世界被大洪水掩沒之災。佢屋企人知道之後仲以為佢人到中年發花癲,點知Evan話自己係遇著上帝。究竟Evan係思覺失調定係真係被上帝委以重任呢?點解無端端上帝要佢整咁鬼大隻挪亞荒舟呢?
當中一些對白挺有意思。


電影中的上帝對主角的太太說:「如果上帝要給你耐性,衪會把耐性直接輸入你的腦袋,還是透過一些事情及機會讓你學習耐性?如果上帝要你的家庭有愛,衪會直接把愛輸入家庭,還是透過一些事情讓你們去感受?」

也看了「窺凶殺人」(Disturbia)

17歲少年家樂(沙拉保夫飾演)因犯事被判「軟禁在家」90日,足踝被繫上一部接駁往警署的電子監察器,不得走出家居範圍。家樂悶極無聊拿起望遠鏡在窗前四圍昅,起初只是八卦街坊瑣事、偷窺剛搬來的索女鄰居,不料某個深夜竟意外目擊血濺窗戶,尖刀狂插的驚心一幕!報警卻苦無證據,又不能離開屋企百呎範圍以外,家樂唯有捧著DV機冒險追蹤兇手一舉一動,又利用手機傳短訊、拍短片,上網、MSN等各種途徑,遙控朋友在外協助緝兇……只是你在監視別人,兇手可能也正在偷窺著你!

每一分鐘都緊張。電影沒有核突的畫面,卻製造了每一分鐘都有事發生的效果,令人驚心動魄地期待。當你以為有事發生時,原來是虛驚一場。看電影時心情像過山車般,令人神經衰弱。

動物園

今天的工作,與參觀動物園無異。
香港浸會大學取錄了9歲天才沈詩鈞入讀數學系。今天是大學的開學日。
大家也期待這位小新鮮人如何渡過大學生活及如何與20歲的人溝通。傳媒也爭相採訪他的一舉一動。
在大學會堂內,詩鈞所有動作都吸引鎂光燈與記者目光,他揮手與發呆都成為焦點。
傳媒工作者好像入了動物園看奇珍異獸。大學變成了動物園,詩鈞是吸引訪客的動物。其他動物也會做出類似的動作,但因為這動物被放進動物園,成為稀有品種,變成賣點。
對一個兒童來說,變成動物園的成員當然不好受。他在傳媒面前顯得不耐煩,多次問爸爸可不可以離開。他讀出一篇預先寫好的講稿,說自己「心情興奮」,但他的表情是煩躁不安。
他說首天大學生活沉悶,因為「教的東西在兩年前學過,而同學又對他沒有反應」。而他也沒有想過大學生活是什麼樣。
但他爸爸彷彿被攝影機吸引,多次叫兒子「講多少少野」。
浸大校長吳清輝呼籲傳媒不要再追訪詩鈞。我覺得在學期及學年完結時可以檢視詩鈞的學習成效,從而提出在香港訓練資優生的路向。但除此之外,傳媒若對詩鈞窮追不捨,他一定會發瘋。
我看浸大在課程設計及輔導上要花很多功夫。

充實的一天

星期日相當充實。

與長者吃午餐
下午與久違的前長者同事Ken吃飯。70多歲的老人家做過幾次心臟手術仍然談笑風生,由個人及公司近況到馬雅人對未來的預測也談到。老人可能要離別香江,希望他生活愉快。

窺看鄧永安


英文中國日報編輯部及市場部員工約十人,星期日殺入攝記鄧永安於大埔的家,窺視本港名攝記的安樂窩。
入屋後,眾人發出嘩嘩聲,對家居的設計表示讚賞,紅色外牆特別醒神,傢俱的選購亦見心思,不被潮流牽住走,是現代加懷舊的cross over。
要招呼十人,燒烤是最佳方法。食品多不勝數,除一般的香腸、肉排及丸外,還有魚及帶子等。
令人匪夷所思的是,65元的魚子醬竟然比不上26元的黑豬肉肝牆!用來送紅酒的60元水牛芝士又比不上皮蛋!
酒水當然是宴客的必備。屋主冰箱所有啤酒全被掃清。我想我當天飲了三個月的酒量。
貴價的白酒也被擺上。原來賈一帆的酒量很厲害,他好像除酒精飲品外,沒有飲過其他東西,飲上一兩杯酒精40多度的白酒也面不改容。他在北京應該是無酒便不能過日吧。
屋主酒量看似厲害。但其實飲多兩杯後便打破杯子及忘記已把酒瓶打開。
在酒杯底下,大家談上各種話題,比較香港與北京的分別,大陸的工作文化及眾人的年齡秘密。
到十一時多,大家盡興而回。
賈一帆他太太快來港,到時他請我們吃海鮮。

Saturday, September 01, 2007

Reflection

Today, 01 September 2007, Saturday, is a day of reflection to me.
I am still somehow bored, and ``menstrual period’’ which I have mentioned earlier will still affect me for a while. But my mood has gone up on Friday and today.
First, the phone conversation on Friday night is delightful. I and my friend, who just returned from a three-day vacation on mainland, kept chatting for some time until the airing of the last episode of TV drama Healing Hands. We did not talk about anything serious. Indeed, our conversation was mainly confined to how was your holiday and how was your work stuff. But the whole thing is nice still.

Then today, I have found through the internet some encouragement quotes, which I used to relief the stress of both me and my friend.
One of the quotes is a Japanese proverb Fall seven times, stand up eight. The other is by Mother Teresa ``I know God will not give me anything I can’t handle. I just wish that He didn’t trust me so much.’’
And I create another one. ``Frustrations and difficulties in workplace are normal. Your boss need not hire you if the job is easy and can be handled by others.’’

And, one of my female ex-colleague will travel to India alone in two weeks. She has not been a backpacker before and she is worried about her safety. I tell her to be cautious and my impression of the country.
India is a country which combines modernization and tradition; advancement and backward. It will be challenging for backpackers, especially female backpacker like you who are on the road alone for the first time. So you have to be cautious. If you love seeing old architecture and experience cultures, India will be your choice because it is in sharp contrast to Hong Kong. With the severe poverty gap, you can see rich men eating in restaurants for tourists and poor men waiting outside the restaurants for leftover.
You can see modernized women driving their own car, but you can also see underprivileged ones. You can see highly educated men, while seeing public announcement notice with pictorial illustration to serve the illiterate citizens.
You will see some mafia people who like to cheat on you, but you will also see nice people and hostel operators who are eager to show you their India.
And drop the ``Big Hong Kong'' attitude 大香港心態, which means understanding India from a ``HK is great'' perspective and criticizing the Indian way of thinking.

Indeed, I have also decided to go South India in late September. I am also a little bit worried because of terrorism. Hyderabad was under attack recently, and Taj Mahal was closed for a short while because of mob.

And I have recently fallen in love with this Korean song.

Friday, August 31, 2007

朋友

一直情緒不穩甚至抑鬱的中學朋友,這些年不多聯絡。直至教會的一項運動,激起我要找他的心。
電話不是沒人接聽,就是朋友的冷淡回應。說忙,說家裡有事,說不同的理由,總之就是不可以出來吃個飯。他說:「係咁架啦!我撐到幾耐咪幾耐!我唔會煩人。遲d先食啦。」
唯有慢慢來吧。聽到被拒絕的回應總比沒人接聽電話好,最起碼也可以確定最壞的尚未來臨。

Sunday, August 26, 2007

民政總署



過去三天要去澳門慶祝外婆壽辰。
八十多歲的老人家,性格自我,與工人合不來之餘還常常無理取無鬧,結果被送去老人院。但入院後生活竟比前開心,想必是因為她可以與其他長者談天,而修女又照顧妥當。
壽宴外,抽時間逛逛澳門。我出生後在澳門待了幾年才回港讀幼稚園。從前我每逢暑假、復活假及聖誕假也必去澳門,情況直至中二。上大學後,我也喜歡不時到澳門三數天,除探親外,我特別喜歡逛南灣的海濱及大三巴一帶。澳門這小城寧靜而純樸,讓人舒服及親切。
這幾次的探訪,也到了王朝廣場一帶,比大型賭場包圍,看見賭場那些金碧輝煌及玻璃外牆,好不繁榮盛世。賭業帶來了各種遊客,當中大部份財迷心竅,想「博一博」,當中一些也沒有公德心,例如在電梯內對「禁止吸煙」字句視若無睹而照點煙可也。
從碼頭到新馬路市中心,眾多當舖的五光十色霓虹燈閃個不停,招攬要解燃眉之急的賭徒。那個蓮花狀的金光閃閃新葡京,我看見就不順心。這些賭場,製造了一種壓迫感。
這城市變的真的很多。繁華背後,我感到越複雜與混沌的環境,距離越大,親切感越小。
有這樣的感覺,是不是因為這幾天心情不佳以致看萬事不順?
幸而我也到了幾百年歷史的民政總署,被那個古老的會議室及圖書館吸引。圖書館中的一本展品,以中文字教中國人讀英文,例如可以Southeast讀成「收付‧依士」。
民政總署相片請click

Thursday, August 23, 2007

我今天姨媽到

其實係呢段日子。不過今天down到係MSN爆粗。
今日,浸會大學宣佈收九歲男童沈詩鈞讀數學系,成為本港最年青大學生。告知老細有記者會,佢話「可以唔去,但若然你無野做咪去下」,因為這單新聞無聊及類似的神童內地好多。
但後來老細call我,叫我「執」翻記者會。火都黎埋。心唸:個頭又話唔做,個頭又話要「執」,想點呀!你覺我炒台同駁行家無問題唔等於我都係咁唸。
翻到公司,仲問我沈詩鈞係唔係中國人。頂!睇報紙啦!人家做了十幾日啦。
講翻單野,唔係話唔值得做,但我覺得點到即止,報紙呢十幾日排山們海咁做,幾時幾日d大學開左會傾收唔收沈詩鈞都講,係沈詩鈞屋企門外等佢訪問。呢d野究竟有咩意義?呢單野嘅公眾利益係資優教育同人才培訓,亦好有gimmick,但個細佬嘅過去同大學之間點爭呢個人有咩公眾利益,對我生活有咩影響。
我覺得有d比人牽住走嘅感覺。我懷疑 ─真係懷疑─ 我係唔係同呢行有d脫節。好煩。行家話我對跑daily野已無左沖勁。但我又唔覺得係咁。
等待中‧‧‧‧‧

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

北上吃四川菜

星期日與兩位行家紀律部隊先生與WE小姐北上深圳一天,先在世外桃源﹝英文叫Shangri-la Club!勁﹞做一輪價錢相宜的水療、採耳及按摩等。然後駒車往台灣花園附近的滿庭芳吃超辣四川菜。
星期五與同一班人看阿森電影及吃飯提到北上娛樂,一時興起便決定星期日成行。
我們三個人,叫了足夠吃飽五六個人的菜,什麼水煮魚、麻浪豆腐、紅油炒手、担担麫及辣子雞全上枱。狠吞虎嚥。吃時覺美味,但回家後卻因熱氣不能入睡。
整天有說有笑,簡單無聊如「骨場環境」等話題也笑上很多次,很熱鬧。
以往北上大多是獨個兒,頂多加一個朋友。對上一次晚上北上找同事吃飯,然後第二天獨自逛書城。輕鬆,卻不熱鬧。
輕鬆、熱鬧及把香港拋在腦後是很愉快。
另外,兩年沒有放大假的我,今年一定要放了。南印度,我很期待‧‧‧‧‧

Saturday, August 11, 2007

單身Party



政府早前公布,香港男女失衡,單人人士又上升。
與友傾起這問題,友現在轉行做單身Party搞手,上個月搞了一次,反應不錯,再接再厲,下星期六再搞。
大抵很多人寂寞難耐!?

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

我要放假

今天朋友見工,應徵教師。被問到為什麼他在求學時期,未完成中大的學位就轉往港大。想不到年代久遠的事情,現在還要回應。友說學方負責人好像對轉校刹有介事,覺得轉校的人是不穩定的人。我心想,現代的教育不是鼓勵人作多方面嘗試嗎?轉大學有什麼大不了。這情況外國多的是。大學不也是一個鼓勵人什麼也嘗試去擴闊體驗的地方嗎?為什麼前線中學教師是這樣的。
會考放榜,人人也爭相採訪那個十四歲的高材生,當人家十六七歲才考中學會考,人家十四歲就在這個殘酷的制度下拿幾個A。聽這消息,我也「嘩」了一聲。但想想,十四歲考中學會考又如何?對我們有什麼啟發?為什麼要如此大做特做?我又在做那些中文中學與英文中學的分別,年年也是這樣。
下午,親北京政黨民建聯主席馬力因癌逝世。
我要放假!即使三兩天也好。
好的是,JJCrab對新工尚滿意,我也聯絡上一個一直想但很久沒有聯絡的人。

Monday, August 06, 2007

原來Hello Kitty有這樣的用途

﹝香港電台2007年8月6日報導﹞泰國警方採用卡通人物吉蒂貓作為警員行為不檢的象徵,希望改善紀律。日後執行職務時對民眾態度不佳、停車不熄匙或違反守則的警員,要戴上印有卡通人物的粉紅色臂章。
一名警官解釋,過去發出責備信的效用不大;選用吉蒂貓,因為容易辨認,希望令警員感到尷尬,促使他們改善。

Hello Kitty to punish bad-boy Thai police
Mon Aug 6, 2:13 AM ET
BANGKOK (AFP) - Thai police said Monday they have recruited Hello Kitty, the moon-faced global icon of cuteness, as a new disciplinary tool for officers found engaging in "inappropriate" behaviour.
Officers who speak too aggressively to civilians, who fail to turn off their engines when they park their cars, or commit other minor violations of proper conduct will be forced to wear bright pink Hello Kitty armbands as punishment, police Colonel Pongpat Chayaphan told AFP.
Previously such offences were punished by a written reprimand, but Pongpat said that seemed to do little to deter future breaches of conduct.
He said he hoped the Hello Kitty armbands would shame officers into shaping up.
"I chose this symbol because it is pink and easy to see," he said.
In addition to wearing the cartoon cat on their sleeves for one day, the officers will also have to be accompanied by whoever is the deputy chief on duty for the day, Pongpat added.
"This is intended to engender their feelings of guilt," Pongpat added.
Second offences will be dealt with by a disciplinary panel that could decide to detain the misbehaving officers, he said.

我的朋友問:為何不強制遺規警員戴上吉蒂貓的頭?

Friday, August 03, 2007

皇后碼頭





星期一,約二時開工,先到皇后碼頭視察,再到高等法院做司法覆核申請。
星期二,早上九時多到高等法院做司法覆核聆訊,再到皇后碼頭視察,直至凌晨一時左右。
星期三,早上七時已到皇后碼頭。收音機說警方仍未清場。直至十時多,一切平靜,眾人猜想清場計劃是否暫緩。就在十一時,過百名警員來了。情況擾攘了近十小時,在晚上九時警方把所有保育人士搬走。十一時放工。幸而清場大致和平,沒有傷亡。
三十多度高溫,在皇后碼頭露天工作,還要常常走動,跟乾蒸沒有什麼分別。很難想像那些在碼頭宿營三個月的保育人士是如何過日子。
我對保育人士的手法有保留,但多少認同他們的訴求。畢竟舊建築物實在越來越少。保留碼頭與緬懷殖民地時代與教育無關。如果說保留碼頭就是擁護緬懷殖民管治,難道拆掉它就等如香港沒有被殖民過,難道學校不用教導小朋友香港過去的歷史,難道保留長城與故宮是要復辟帝王專制管治。
雖然皇后碼頭不太美觀,但環看中環眾多高聳入雲的商業大廈與大型商場,再看看那個好像迪士尼樂園美國小鎮大街建築物的新天星碼頭後,我怕將來新不如舊。而可以用作分眾集會及休憩的地方也越來越少。
希望灣仔市區重建可以處理得好點。
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